Pergola ideas, from the footing up

1. Freestanding pergola over an existing patio

A freestanding pergola carries its own load on four or more posts and does not touch the house.

Works best when: the patio is a few steps from the house, or you want to avoid tying into the wall.

What it takes: posts on their own concrete footings next to or through the patio. A paver patio’s base is not designed as a post footing, so ask how each post is supported.

In the scope: number of posts, footing size and depth, how the patio is cut and patched, and lumber or metal spec.

2. Attached pergola off the back wall

An attached pergola uses a ledger board fixed to the house on one side and posts on the other.

Works best when: you want shade right outside a door or window that gets afternoon sun.

What it takes: a ledger fastened to the house framing, flashing so water does not get behind the siding, and footings for the outer posts.

In the scope: ledger fastener type and spacing, flashing detail, footing depth, and who pulls the permit.

3. Corner pergola for an outdoor kitchen or grill

A corner pergola defines a cooking or bar area inside a larger patio.

Works best when: the grill area needs its own zone and some overhead cover.

What it takes: footings, and a clear distance from the grill or any heat source to the frame and roof members as the grill maker specifies. Gas and electrical work go to licensed trades.

In the scope: the frame, and separately, who runs any gas line or circuit and to what code.

4. Pergola walkway or tunnel

A walkway pergola is a series of arches or frames over a path, usually planted with climbers.

Works best when: a path runs between two parts of the garden and you want it to read as a destination.

What it takes: a footing for each post pair, a level or stepped path below, and plants placed at the posts.

In the scope: span, post spacing, footing depth, path surface and plant list.

5. Pergola on a deck

A deck-mounted pergola fixes posts to the deck framing rather than the decking boards.

Works best when: the deck is solid and the posts can land over joists or beams.

What it takes: blocking between joists, through-bolts and a check that the deck framing can carry the added load.

In the scope: how posts attach to framing, added blocking, and whether a permit or engineer’s note is needed.

6. Open slatted roof

Rafters topped with slats or purlins cast shade that moves with the sun.

Works best when: you want partial shade and air movement, and rain cover does not matter.

What it takes: rafters and slats sized for the span; closer slat spacing and orientation change how much shade you get.

In the scope: slat size, spacing and direction, and fasteners rated for exterior use.

7. Louvered (adjustable) roof

A louvered roof has blades that rotate open for light or closed against sun and rain, often motorized.

Works best when: you want to use the patio in rain and in midday sun.

What it takes: a frame built to the manufacturer’s install guide, gutters in the frame, and a licensed electrician for any motor or lighting circuit.

In the scope: product and model, footing spec from the manufacturer, drainage outlet, and electrical scope by a licensed electrician.

8. Polycarbonate or solid roof panels

Clear or tinted panels on top of the rafters keep rain off while letting light through.

Works best when: the patio sits outside a door used in wet weather.

What it takes: a slight roof pitch so water runs off, gutter or drip edge, and fixing details from the panel maker. A solid roof changes what the frame must carry, especially where snow falls.

In the scope: panel product, pitch, gutter, and whether the roof is engineered for local snow and wind.

9. Retractable fabric canopy

A fabric canopy slides along cables or rails under or over the rafters.

Works best when: you want shade on demand and can pull the fabric in before storms.

What it takes: track hardware fixed to the frame and fabric rated for outdoor UV exposure.

In the scope: fabric type, track system, and the warranty on fabric and hardware.

10. Vine-covered pergola

Climbing plants trained over the slats give shade in summer and, if deciduous, light in winter.

Works best when: you can wait for growth and will prune each year. Heavy woody vines need a frame built for their weight.

What it takes: a frame sized for the vine, a planting bed at the posts and wires or trellis to start climbers.

In the scope: plant species, bed preparation, and the frame size relative to the vine’s mature weight. See planting and garden beds.

11. Cedar or other rot-resistant wood

Rot-resistant softwood is the traditional pergola material and takes stain or weathers to gray.

Works best when: you like the look of wood and will reseal it on a schedule.

What it takes: posts kept off direct ground contact with metal post bases, or ground-contact rated lumber where posts go into concrete.

In the scope: species and grade, post base hardware, and the finish applied at install.

12. Pressure-treated pine, painted or stained

Pressure-treated lumber rated for ground contact handles posts; above-ground grades suit beams and slats.

Works best when: you plan to paint the frame and want a lower material cost than cedar.

What it takes: lumber dried before finishing and fasteners compatible with treated wood.

In the scope: treatment rating per member, fastener coating, and who applies paint or stain.

13. Aluminum or steel frame

Powder-coated aluminum or steel frames resist rot and need little more than washing.

Works best when: you want low upkeep or a slim modern profile.

What it takes: anchor bolts into footings or a slab thick enough to hold them, per the manufacturer.

In the scope: product, anchor method, footing or slab spec, and finish warranty.

14. Pergola with low-voltage lighting

Low-voltage lighting under the beams makes the patio usable after dark.

Works best when: you sit outside in the evening.

What it takes: a plug-in transformer and fixtures run along the beams; any new outlet or hardwired fixture is a licensed electrician’s job.

In the scope: fixture count, transformer rating, timer, cable routing and who adds any outlet.

15. Poolside pergola

A poolside pergola gives a shaded lounging strip beside the water without roofing the pool itself. It suits pools with no tree cover, where loungers sit in full sun all afternoon.

Build note: keep footings clear of the pool shell and buried plumbing, use fasteners that resist chlorine or salt splash, and check pool barrier rules before placing posts.

16. Hot tub pergola

A pergola over a hot tub adds overhead privacy from upstairs windows next door and some shade by day. It suits tubs placed close to a neighbor’s two-story house. Build note: plan the tub pad and the pergola footings together, and have a licensed electrician run the tub circuit before the frame goes up.

17. Garden-entry pergola

A short pergola over a gate or path opening marks the entrance to a garden room. It suits yards divided into areas, such as a vegetable garden behind a hedge. Build note: set two or four posts in footings and size the beams so the span does not sag under a climbing plant.

18. Driveway or carport pergola

A pergola over part of a driveway shades a parked car and breaks up a wide expanse of paving. It suits hot climates and houses without a garage. Build note: set posts back from where cars turn, size footings for wind, and check for a permit because of the structure’s size.

19. Front-porch pergola

A pergola extending a small front stoop gives the entry a shaded landing and a place for a bench. It suits houses with a bare concrete stoop and no porch roof. Build note: attach to the house or use freestanding posts that respect front setbacks, and expect HOA review of anything on the front elevation.

20. Side-yard pergola corridor

A narrow pergola running down a side yard turns a utility strip into a shaded route between front and back. It suits wide side yards used daily for bins or bikes. Build note: leave clearance for meters and service access, and keep posts away from basement egress windows.

21. Pergola over a garden bench

A small two-post pergola over a single bench creates a reading spot at the end of a path. It suits cottage gardens and quiet corners away from the patio. Build note: lay a gravel pad underneath and set the post anchors in short concrete footings.

22. Pergola at the end of a lawn

A pergola placed at the far end of a lawn gives the eye a destination and draws people down the yard.

It suits long, narrow lots where everything currently happens near the house.

Build note: add a path to reach it and a level pad or small patio beneath so furniture does not sink into lawn.

23. Pergola beside a fire pit

A pergola placed next to, not over, a wood fire pit gives daytime shade while keeping beams out of the heat. It suits patios that combine dining and a fire circle. Build note: keep the clearance between fire and structure that the local fire code and the pit maker require.

24. Rooftop or balcony pergola

A lightweight pergola on a rooftop terrace or balcony adds shade where nothing can be dug. It suits city apartments and flat-roofed townhouses. Build note: have a structural engineer confirm the roof or deck can carry the frame and its wind uplift before buying anything.

25. Pergola over an outdoor dining table

A pergola sized to a dining table and chairs defines the eating area within a larger patio. It suits patios that feel like one undefined slab. Build note: measure the table with chairs pulled out, add walking clearance, and set the posts outside that footprint.

26. Pergola linking house to garage

A pergola bridging the gap between the house and a detached garage covers the walk between them. It suits homes where that walk is a daily route. Build note: use separate footings at each end and avoid putting any load on gutters or fascia.

27. Double-layer slat roof

A second layer of slats laid across the first at right angles gives denser shade than a single layer. It suits west-facing patios in hot climates where open slats let in too much sun. Build note: add fasteners at every crossing and check the rafters can carry the extra weight over their span.

28. Angled louvers fixed in place

Fixed slats set at an angle block high summer sun while admitting low winter sun. They suit south-facing patios in climates with cold winters and hot summers. Build note: calculate the slat angle for your latitude and the pergola’s orientation before cutting.

29. Reed or bamboo roll cover

Reed or bamboo fencing rolls laid over the rafters give quick, light shade at low cost. They suit renters and owners testing how much shade they want before committing to a roof. Build note: tie the rolls down securely against wind and expect to replace them every few seasons.

30. Corrugated metal roof

Corrugated metal panels turn a pergola into a rain shelter with a rustic or industrial look. They suit farmhouse styles and rainy regions. Build note: build a pitched frame, add gutters, fix panels at the maker’s spacing, and expect a permit is more likely with a solid roof.

31. Glass roof pergola

Tempered or laminated glass panels give rain cover while letting full light into rooms behind. They suit pergolas attached to a house where a solid roof would darken the interior. Build note: have the frame engineered for the glass weight and use a specialist glazing installer.

32. Shade cloth stretched across rafters

Knitted shade cloth stretched over the rafters cuts glare while letting air through. It suits windy sites where solid fabric would act like a sail. Build note: tension the edges evenly and choose a cloth density for the amount of shade you want.

33. Motorized retractable roof

A motorized fabric or slat roof retracts at the press of a switch or by a rain or wind sensor. It suits patios used at all hours where shade needs change through the day. Build note: build to the maker’s frame specification and have a licensed electrician wire the motor circuit.

34. Partial roof over one bay

Covering only one bay of a multi-bay pergola gives a dry corner and leaves an open, sunny section. It suits long pergolas over dining and lounging areas. Build note: add a gutter at the covered bay’s edge and pitch that bay alone so water runs off.

35. Green roof pergola

A shallow sedum tray roof on a heavy-duty pergola adds insulation and a planted top seen from upstairs windows. It suits garden rooms overlooked from the house. Build note: have the frame engineered for saturated soil weight and install a waterproof membrane beneath the trays.

36. Curtained pergola

Outdoor curtains on rods between posts give movable side shade and privacy. They suit pergolas in exposed spots where sun comes in low from one side. Build note: fix rods into posts with exterior hardware and choose outdoor-rated, mildew-resistant fabric.

37. Solar-panel pergola

A pergola carrying solar panels gives shade beneath and generates electricity above. It suits sunny lots where the roof is shaded or unsuitable for panels. Build note: use an engineered frame and a licensed solar installer and electrician, and expect a utility interconnection process.

38. Vine-and-wire roof

Stainless wires strung between beams give lighter vines a path across the top without full slats. It suits minimal designs where you want planting to provide the shade. Build note: tension the wire with turnbuckles and anchor it into solid wood, not thin slats.

39. Douglas fir timber frame

Large-section Douglas fir timbers give a heavy, traditional frame with a timber-framed look. They suit craftsman and farmhouse homes and owners willing to maintain a finish. Build note: protect end grain, raise post bases off the concrete, and reseal on a regular schedule.

40. Redwood pergola

Redwood heartwood resists decay and weathers to silver gray if left unfinished. It suits West Coast gardens and owners who prefer natural wood without paint. Build note: specify heartwood grade for posts and use stainless or coated fasteners to avoid staining.

41. Vinyl pergola kit

Vinyl pergola kits slip over internal posts or aluminum cores and need only occasional washing. They suit owners who want a white, painted look without repainting. Build note: install per the kit instructions with posts anchored to proper footings, not just the patio surface.

42. Fiberglass columns

Fiberglass columns paired with wood or aluminum beams give a classical look without rot. They suit formal and colonial houses with columned porches. Build note: check that the columns are rated as load-bearing or sleeve them over structural posts.

43. Steel I-beam frame

A steel beam frame allows long, slim spans for a modern pergola with few posts. It suits contemporary houses and wide patios where posts would interrupt the space. Build note: have the connections engineered, welded or bolted, and specify rust protection suited to your climate.

44. Stone or brick piers

Masonry piers under wood beams give a pergola permanence and visual weight. They suit gardens with existing stone or brick walls to match. Build note: build pier footings to frost depth and set anchor bolts in the masonry for the beams.

45. Composite lumber pergola

Composite or PVC lumber resists rot and needs no stain. It suits owners matching a composite deck. Build note: confirm the product is rated for structural use; many composites are cladding over a wood or metal core.

46. Thermally modified wood

Thermally modified wood is heat-treated to resist decay without chemical preservatives. It suits owners who want wood without pressure treatment. Build note: pre-drill and use stainless fasteners, since the treated wood can be more brittle than untreated.

47. Black-stained wood frame

A dark stain on a wood pergola gives a modern look and hides weathering better than clear finishes. It suits contemporary houses with dark window frames. Build note: use a penetrating stain and reapply it on schedule, as dark colors absorb heat and fade.

48. Natural log pergola

Peeled log posts and beams suit cabin, lodge and rustic gardens with a woodland setting. It suits wooded lots where milled lumber would look out of place. Build note: debark and treat the logs, and set posts on metal bases off the ground to slow rot.

49. Cantilevered pergola

A cantilevered pergola has posts on one side only, with beams projecting over the space. It suits patios where posts would block a view or a walkway. Build note: have an engineer design the post footing to resist overturning, since all the load sits on one side.

50. Freestanding single-post pergola

A T-shaped single-post pergola shades a small bench or bistro set. It suits tight corners where four posts would crowd the space. Build note: use a deep footing and a heavy-duty post-to-footing connection to resist wind leverage.

51. Curved or arched beam pergola

Curved beams soften the outline of a pergola and suit cottage and traditional gardens. They suit yards with curved paths and planting beds. Build note: use laminated or cut curves and hire a carpenter experienced with curved work.

52. Japanese-style pergola

A Japanese-inspired pergola uses simple post-and-beam joinery with extended beam ends. It suits gravel gardens, ponds and Asian-inspired plantings. Dark-stained or natural cedar keeps the look restrained. Build note: cut joinery accurately and protect exposed beam ends from water.

53. Mediterranean pergola with columns

Round columns and heavy beams draped with vines give a Mediterranean feel. They suit stucco houses and dry-climate gardens. Grapes or wisteria complete the look. Build note: size columns for the beam load and set footings below them.

54. Craftsman pergola

Tapered posts and decorative rafter tails echo the details of Craftsman houses. It suits bungalows and homes with exposed rafter tails on the roof. Build note: match the proportions to the house trim and use solid stock for the tails.

55. Minimal flat-beam pergola

A minimal pergola uses square posts and flat beams with no decorative ends. It suits modern houses with clean lines and flat roofs. Build note: use hidden fasteners and precise cuts so joints stay crisp.

56. Octagonal pergola

An eight-sided pergola suits a round patio or a hot tub. It suits yards where a rectangle would leave awkward corners. Build note: expect more cuts and connections; a carpenter rather than a kit is usual.

57. Multi-bay long pergola

A long pergola of several bays creates a covered walk or a long dining gallery. It suits long, narrow yards and paths between garden areas. Build note: keep post spacing consistent and add bracing against racking along the length.

58. Pergola with knee braces

Diagonal knee braces between post and beam stiffen the frame and add a timber-frame look. They suit taller pergolas and windy sites. The braces also make the frame read as heavier timber. Build note: fix the braces with structural screws or through-bolts.

59. Asymmetric pergola

An asymmetric pergola uses offset beams or roof levels for a sculptural look. It suits architect-designed houses and modern gardens. It works best when one line of the house sets the angle. Build note: draw the design first and have connections checked for unequal loads.

60. Pergola with integrated planter boxes

Planter boxes built around the post bases give vines a root run and hide the footings. They suit pergolas built on paving with no soil nearby. Build note: line and drain the boxes, and protect posts from constant contact with wet soil.

61. Clematis on a pergola post

Clematis climbs by wrapping its leaf stalks around supports and suits light frames where heavy vines would be too much.

It suits sunny pergolas where the roots can be shaded by low plants.

Build note: add wire or netting on the posts for it to grip, and shade the base with a low perennial or mulch.

62. Climbing rose

Climbing roses tied along beams give flowers overhead in summer. They suit sunny, airy pergolas where good air movement limits leaf disease. Build note: tie canes to the frame, since roses do not twine on their own, and prune each year.

63. Wisteria on a heavy frame

Wisteria gives dense curtains of flowers but becomes very heavy and woody with age. It suits strongly built pergolas and owners who will prune twice a year. Build note: oversize the posts and beams, and keep it away from gutters and siding it can damage.

64. Grapevine pergola

Grapevines cover a pergola with leaves in summer and drop them for winter light. They suit sunny patios where winter sun is welcome. Build note: size the frame for the mature vine’s weight and plan annual cane pruning in late winter.

65. Hardy kiwi

Hardy kiwi is a vigorous twining vine that can fruit if male and female plants are grown together. It suits large, strong pergolas in climates where it grows. Build note: build a strong frame and plan regular pruning to control its vigor.

66. Hops vine

Hops grow quickly each season and die back to the ground in winter, giving seasonal shade. They suit sunny pergolas where you want winter light. Build note: run strings or wires from ground to beam and give full sun; cut the dead growth back each fall.

67. Star jasmine in warm climates

Star jasmine is an evergreen, fragrant climber for mild-winter regions. It suits patios near seating where the scent can be enjoyed in the evening. Build note: add trellis on the posts to start it and water regularly through summer.

68. Passionflower

Passionflower climbs by tendrils and carries unusual flowers on a sunny pergola. It suits warm, sheltered spots. Some types die back in frost and regrow from the roots. Build note: provide netting or wire for the tendrils and choose a sheltered position in cooler regions.

69. Climbing hydrangea on a shady side

Climbing hydrangea tolerates shade and clings to posts with aerial roots. It suits north-facing pergolas and shady courtyards. Build note: give it a solid post surface to cling to and be patient, as it is slow to start.

70. Hanging baskets from beams

Hanging baskets from the beams add color without a vine’s weight or long establishment. They suit new pergolas while climbers grow in. Build note: screw hooks into solid beams, not thin slats, and plan how you will water them.

71. Built-in bench between posts

A bench framed between two pergola posts adds seating without extra footings. It suits small patios where freestanding furniture would crowd the floor. Build note: tie the bench frame into the posts and use exterior-rated boards with drainage gaps.

72. Outdoor bar counter

A counter fixed between posts turns one side of the pergola into a serving bar. It suits entertainers whose grill sits nearby. Build note: give the counter its own footing or tie it into the posts, and have any plumbing run by a licensed plumber.

73. Ceiling fan under a covered pergola

An outdoor-rated ceiling fan under a solid roof moves air on still, humid days. It suits covered pergolas in hot, humid climates. Build note: choose a damp- or wet-rated fan, mount it to solid framing, and have a licensed electrician wire it.

74. Outdoor heater mount

A wall- or beam-mounted patio heater extends the season under a covered pergola. It suits cool evenings in spring and fall. Build note: respect the heater’s required clearances to the roof, and use a licensed installer for gas or hardwired units.

75. Privacy lattice side panel

A lattice panel on one side of a pergola screens a neighbor’s view and supports climbers. It suits pergolas near a property line. Build note: frame the lattice and fix it to the posts so it does not flex in wind.

76. Swing hung from a beam

A porch swing or hanging daybed hung from a beam adds a relaxed seat. It suits sturdy timber pergolas. Leave clear space in front and behind for the swing arc. Build note: have the builder confirm the beam and hardware can carry dynamic swinging loads.

77. Pergola with a planter wall

A planter wall built along one side of a pergola adds planting at seat height. It suits pergolas on paving where in-ground beds are not possible. Build note: line and drain the planter and build it on its own base.

78. Outdoor shower under a pergola

A pergola can frame an outdoor shower beside a pool or garden. It suits pool yards and coastal homes. Build note: drain to a suitable outlet and have a licensed plumber install supply and drainage.

79. Pergola with a stone floor upgrade

Replacing turf beneath a pergola with stone or pavers stops furniture sinking and grass dying in shade. It suits pergolas built over lawn. Build note: plan the base, slope and edge restraint around the existing post footings.

80. Pergola speaker mounts

Outdoor speakers mounted on the beams bring sound to the seating area without stands. They suit entertaining spaces. Angling them down toward seating keeps sound off the neighbors. Build note: use outdoor-rated speakers and route low-voltage cable along the beams out of sight.

81. Snow-country pergola

In heavy-snow areas, an open slat roof lets snow fall through rather than loading up as a solid roof would. It suits northern and mountain regions. Build note: set footings below frost depth and space slats so snow does not bridge across them.

82. Desert pergola with dense shade

In hot, dry regions, denser slats or shade cloth matter more than looks. It suits desert patios used in summer. Build note: orient slats to block afternoon sun and choose materials that tolerate strong UV.

83. Coastal pergola

Near the coast, pergolas need corrosion-resistant hardware and wind-rated anchors. It suits waterfront homes exposed to salt air. Salt corrodes ordinary zinc-plated screws within a few seasons. Build note: use stainless or hot-dip galvanized fasteners and anchors rated for local wind.

84. Hurricane-region pergola

In hurricane regions, local codes may set wind-load requirements for outdoor structures. It suits the Gulf and Atlantic coasts. Build note: build to an engineered design with a permit, and use removable fabric rather than fixed panels.

85. Rainy-climate covered pergola

In wet climates, a clear roof keeps seating usable most of the year. It suits the Pacific Northwest and similar regions. Build note: pitch the roof and fit gutters that discharge away from the house foundation.

86. Wildfire-area pergola

In wildfire areas, a non-combustible frame and clear space around it reduce risk near the house. It suits fire-prone regions with defensible-space rules. Build note: consider a metal frame and follow state rules for structures near the home.

87. Humid-climate pergola

In humid regions, airflow and rot-resistant materials keep a pergola sound. It suits the Southeast. Mildew and rot start where water sits in joints and post bases. Build note: set posts on raised metal bases and use open slats rather than solid panels.

88. High-altitude sun pergola

Strong mountain sun calls for UV-stable fabrics and finishes. It suits high-elevation homes with intense sunlight. Fabric and finishes fade faster there than at sea level, so plan on replacing them sooner. Build note: choose UV-rated shade fabric and a stain with UV protection.

89. Windy-site low-profile pergola

On exposed sites, a lower pergola with fewer side panels catches less wind. It suits hilltops and open plains. Planting a hedge on the windward side adds shelter without loading the frame. Build note: use engineered footings and avoid large fabric surfaces.

90. Mild-winter evergreen vine pergola

In mild regions, an evergreen vine gives year-round cover and privacy. It suits coastal California and the Gulf South. Star jasmine is a common choice. Build note: size the frame for the mature vine and prune to keep weight down.

91. Wall-mounted pergola

A wall-mounted pergola uses a ledger on the house and brackets instead of posts. It suits narrow patios where posts would block movement. Build note: use an engineered bracket and ledger attachment into the house framing, with proper flashing.

92. Bistro-size pergola

A small square pergola sized for a bistro table suits a tiny patio or balcony-level deck. It suits townhouse yards. A single vine on one post is usually enough shade at that size. Build note: set four posts in footings and keep the span short.

93. Pergola over a balcony door

A narrow canopy pergola over a door shades the glass and the threshold. It suits sliding doors facing south or west. It also keeps rain off the door sill. Build note: fix brackets into framing and flash above the ledger.

94. Corner pergola using two fences

A corner pergola sited where two fences meet uses the corner for privacy. It suits small square yards. Climbers trained on the fences fill in the sides. Build note: set independent posts beside the fences, not fixed to fence boards.

95. Pergola over a narrow side path

A slim pergola down a side path gives vines a route without taking width. It suits side yards between houses. Arches are often lighter-looking than a full beam frame there. Build note: place posts at the edges only and leave clearance for wheelbarrows.

96. Pergola on a small deck corner

A pergola over one corner of a small deck shades a single seating spot. It suits compact decks. Shade lands right where a pair of chairs sits, leaving the rest of the deck in sun. Build note: fix posts to deck framing with added blocking.

97. Freestanding pergola kit for renters

A weighted-base pergola kit can sit on a patio without digging, where the maker approves it. It suits renters. It packs down and moves with you when the lease ends. Build note: ballast to the maker’s wind guidance; avoid exposed sites.

98. Pergola with fold-down table

A fold-down table fixed to a pergola post saves floor space. It suits tiny patios. Folded flat against the post, it leaves the floor free for chairs or a grill when not in use for meals. Build note: mount a hinge bracket into the post.

99. Mini arbor at a gate

A small arbor over a garden gate gives height without taking ground space. It suits small front or side yards. A climbing rose or clematis on each side frames the gateway within a season or two. Build note: set posts in concrete and hang the gate from separate posts.

100. Overhead beams only

Just two beams spanning between the house and a pair of posts suggest a pergola without a full roof. It suits small courtyards. Build note: use footings and a ledger attachment if fixed to the house.