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Yard drainage and grading: find the water first

How to tell where yard water comes from, what the work involves, what belongs in the written scope, and when a French drain is the right answer.

Updated September 18, 2026

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Written by HyreYard Research Desk Primary-source research and fact checking

The short answer

Grading decides where surface water goes. Drainage handles the water grading cannot reach. Together they protect the foundation, the patio base and any retaining wall, not only the lawn. The right fix depends on where the water comes from: roof, slope, soil or subsurface flow. Find that before anyone prices a French drain.

A–D NRCS hydrologic soil groups; group D has the highest runoff USDA NRCS, National Engineering Handbook Part 630, Chapter 7: Hydrologic Soil Groups
1.5% minimum surface slope ICPI gives for interlocking pavement Interlocking Concrete Pavement Institute, Tech Spec 2 (rev. 2020)
811 the free national call-before-you-dig number Common Ground Alliance, 811 Before You Dig

If this is happening now

Water standing against a foundation wall, running into a crawl space or basement, or showing up indoors after rain is a building problem first.

Stop the source you can reach: a disconnected downspout, an overflowing gutter or a blocked area drain. Then have the ground next to the wall looked at. Repeated soaking against a foundation does not fix itself.

What should you know before you pay for drainage?

Diagnose before anyone prescribes

A French drain answers one problem. Priced before anyone knows where the water comes from, it is a guess at a fixed price.

Where water stands is not where it starts

Roof water, driveway runoff, a neighbor’s slope and subsurface flow can all end in the same wet patch, and each has a different fix.

The soil decides what is possible

A dry well depends on ground that accepts water. In group D soil, the highest-runoff group, it can fill and stay full.

Grade first, pipe second

Water led away by shaping the ground never enters a pipe, so it cannot block, silt up or need cleaning.

Find a landscaping company for drainage or grading

Free, with no obligation: a person at HyreYard replies by email. Matching is not live yet, so this is not a quote. If a tree or limb is on a power line, stay away and call the utility.

What is your yard telling you?

Water leaves evidence specific enough to narrow the cause before anyone digs. Walk the yard during rain, not after it.

Water standing a day after rain

The ground has nowhere to send it or cannot absorb it. One is a grade problem, the other a soil problem.

A straight wet line across the lawn

An old utility trench, a buried pipe that leaks, or loose trench backfill that settled into a low point.

Erosion channels in a line

Concentrated surface flow. Follow the channel uphill to the source, such as a downspout, a driveway edge or a neighbor’s slope.

Mulch or gravel washed downhill

The same flow, with the evidence moved to where the water goes.

Moss or soggy turf in one patch

Chronic saturation rather than one storm: subsurface water or a compacted layer, which lawn renovation treats by aeration.

A gap between soil and foundation

Backfill has settled, so roof and surface water now runs down the wall instead of away from it.

Damp lines or white residue on a basement wall

Water reaching the wall from outside. The symptom is indoors; the fix can be outdoors.

A patio or path settled on one side

Water moving under the base. The patio is the victim, not the cause.

Which problem is “the yard floods”?

Several problems get one name and one quote. They have different causes, fixes and prices, and telling them apart is the diagnosis.

ProblemHow to tell, and what fixes it
Roof waterDownspouts emptying at the wall or a few feet from it. The simplest to fix: extend or reroute the discharge.
Surface flow from upslopeWater crossing the ground from a neighbor’s lot, a driveway or a higher slope. Intercept and redirect it with a swale, berm or graded route.
Ground falling toward the houseSettled backfill has left the soil sloping toward the wall. Regrading to restore the fall away from the house is the fix.
Soil that will not absorbHeavy clay, a compacted construction layer or a high water table. Infiltration will not work, so water has to be moved sideways. Clay that also swells is covered in expansive soils and hardscape.
SprinklersStanding water the morning after a scheduled watering is an irrigation setting, not a soil problem.
Subsurface flowWater moving through the ground and surfacing where a layer changes or the slope breaks. This is what an interceptor drain is for.
Failed existing drainageA pipe, area drain or dry well already there that is silted, crushed, full of roots or never had an outlet. Check before adding a second system.

What should a contractor establish before proposing anything?

A proposal written without these answers has priced a product, not a fix.

Where the water comes from

Roof, paving, upslope ground, subsurface, or several at once, seen during rain rather than guessed afterward.

Where it can go

Every design ends at an outlet that sits lower than the system, somewhere discharge is allowed.

The soil group

The free USDA Web Soil Survey shows your mapped hydrologic soil group, which decides whether water can go into the ground at all.

The fall around the house

Measured with levels, not eyeballed, including how far soil has settled against the walls.

What is already buried

Old drains, sump discharge lines and irrigation mains, found before the trencher finds them.

What changed upslope

A new driveway, an addition, a removed tree or a neighbor’s regrade. A yard that was dry and is now wet has a reason.

Where the water ends up

Moving water off your lot onto a neighbor’s can become a legal dispute, not just a courtesy question.

Nearby water and flood zones

Work near a stream, wetland or floodplain can bring in separate rules. Your local authority answers that, not the contractor.

How is a drainage problem fixed?

Order matters. Each step can remove the need for the next, and a job that starts with a trench has skipped the cheaper fixes.

01
Watch it rain

Someone walks the yard during rain, or works from your photos and video taken then. This is the only step that produces direct evidence.

02
Find the soil group and the outlet

The soil group decides whether water can go into the ground. The outlet decides where it goes if not. A design with no named outlet is unfinished.

03
Measure the grade

Levels are taken around the house and across the wet area, so the fall is a number rather than an impression.

04
Fix roof water first

Downspouts are extended, rerouted or piped so roof water leaves well away from the house. Try it and watch a storm before trenching.

05
Regrade at the house

Soil is built back up so it falls away from the foundation, while staying below the siding and any weep holes.

06
Shape surface routes

Swales, berms and graded paths lead water around and away. Where the ground allows one, a swale needs no pipe and cannot clog.

07
Add subsurface drainage if still needed

A trench, clean stone, perforated pipe laid to a steady fall, a filter fabric and a named outlet. Each is a line in the written scope.

08
Restore and test

Trenches are backfilled and compacted, turf and beds are put back, and the system is watched in the next real storm.

What do the NRCS soil groups rule out?

The USDA class your mapped soil falls into, free to look up on the Web Soil Survey. It tells you quickly whether putting water into the ground is realistic on your lot.

Soil groupWhat it means
Group A: low runoff runoffDeep sands and gravelly sands. Water goes down.
Group B: moderately low runoffModerately well to well drained, moderate texture.
Group C: moderately high runoffA layer that impedes downward movement, or finer texture.
Group D: high runoff runoffClays with high shrink-swell, a high water table, a claypan, or shallow soil over near-impervious material.

Dry wells, rain gardens and infiltration trenches depend on ground that accepts water, which is likelier in groups A and B. The survey is a map, not a test of your lot: use it to frame the conversation, not to settle it. Our soil drainage and yard flooding study covers the drainage classes in full.

What belongs in the written scope for drainage?

Once drainage is finished there is nothing to inspect. The paper describing it is the only proof it was built right. A proposal that names a product and a price but none of this has not been designed.

The diagnosis

Where the water comes from, and the evidence the conclusion rests on.

The outlet

Exactly where it daylights or connects, and that it sits lower than the system. “To daylight” with no location is not an outlet.

The fall

The slope the pipe or swale is laid to, and how it is checked during the work.

Trench size

Depth and width along the run.

The stone

Clean, open-graded stone, named. Fill gravel with fines in it does not drain.

The filter fabric

Between the stone and the soil, so fines cannot wash in and clog the trench over a few seasons.

The pipe

Diameter, and where it is perforated or solid.

Cleanouts

Access points so the system can be flushed when it silts.

Backfill and compaction

Trenches refilled in compacted lifts, so the trench line does not settle into the lawn’s new low point.

Grading at the house

The fall being restored, and how far soil stays below the siding and weep holes.

Discharge and the property line

Where the water ends up, and confirmation that discharging there is allowed.

Restoration

What happens to turf, beds and paving the work crosses, and who pays.

The same buried-work argument applied to patios and walls is on the hardscape base specification.

Call 811 before anyone digs

Drainage trenches run long and can cross gas, power, water and communication lines.

Contact 811 first

811 is the free national before-you-dig service. Request marks, and the utilities flag or paint their lines before digging starts.

Agree who calls

Write it into the scope with a date, so the trench waits for the marks.

Keep clear of open trenches

Deep, narrow trenches can collapse. Keep children and pets away until they are backfilled.

What moves the price of drainage work?

Drainage is priced on how much ground moves, how far the water has to be carried, and how much has to be restored afterward.

FactorWhy it changes the number
Surface or subsurfaceRegrading and a swale move earth. Trench, stone, pipe, fabric and restoration is a larger job. A diagnosis that allows the surface fix saves money.
Distance to the outletEvery foot between the problem and a lower, allowed outlet is trench, stone, pipe and backfill. A flat lot is harder than a sloping one.
DepthSet by the fall the design needs. Deeper trenches mean more digging, more spoil and more care with trench walls.
Soil and obstructionsRock, roots, clay and old construction debris slow the trencher down.
What the run crossesA trench under a driveway, patio or wall means taking it out and rebuilding it in the middle of a drainage job.
RestorationTurf, beds and planting put back afterward. In a mature garden this can rival the drainage itself.
Spoil and accessExcavated soil leaves by truck for a fee, and hand-digging through a narrow gate changes the labor line.
Design and permitsLevels, a real diagnosis, sometimes an engineer’s opinion, and any local grading or discharge permit.

HyreYard publishes no national average price for this work. Regional labor, material and disposal rates, access and soil move it far enough that a single figure would mislead.

Offered a French drain first? Ask what the diagnosis was.

A French drain fits a narrow problem: water that must be caught below the surface, on ground with somewhere lower to send it.

Before you buy one, ask where the water comes from, what the soil group is, where the outlet is, and why a surface fix was ruled out. A contractor who answers all four clearly has done the diagnosis.

Run the drainage diagnostic for your yard

What to ask before you sign

Where is the water coming from?

And what did you see that tells you so?

Have you seen this yard in rain?

Or are you working from a dry-day visit?

What is the soil group here?

Can water go into the ground at all?

Where does the system outlet?

Is that point lower than the pipe along its whole length?

Am I allowed to discharge there?

And what does it do to my neighbor’s lot?

Why is a surface fix not enough?

Regrading, a swale or longer downspouts.

What fall is the pipe laid to?

And how is it checked during the work?

How is it cleaned out?

Where are the access points?

What to have ready before a site visit

Rain footage

Photos and video during heavy rain and an hour after. Nobody can reconstruct this on a dry day.

A sketch of the wet spots

Where water stands, how deep, and how long it takes to go.

Every downspout

Where each one discharges, and any that are disconnected or end near the wall.

Your soil group

Look up your address on the Web Soil Survey before anyone proposes putting water into the ground.

The low point

The lowest spot on the lot, and whether anything lower is available as an outlet.

Recent changes upslope

A new driveway, an addition, a removed tree or a neighbor’s regrade.

Where does drainage work go wrong?

A drain before a diagnosis

A French drain built to fix a downspout problem carries roof water that should never have been in the ground.

No outlet

Pipe laid to nowhere, or to a point no lower than itself, is a buried reservoir.

A dry well in group D soil

In high-runoff soil the hole can fill, stay full and become the wettest spot on the lot.

Dirty stone, no fabric

Fines in the stone, or soil washing in without fabric, clog the trench. It fails slowly and looks the same from above.

Loose trench backfill

An uncompacted trench settles into the lowest line in the lawn, and the drain collects water it created.

Soil heaped against siding

Restoring the fall is right. Burying the bottom of the siding or the weep holes to get it is not.

Your inquiry

Tell us about the work

Nothing goes to a landscaping company unless you agree.

Free, with no obligation: a person at HyreYard reads your request and replies by email. Matching is not live yet, so this is not a quote, and nothing goes to a landscaping company unless you agree. If a tree or limb is on a power line, stay away and call the utility.

Find a Landscaping Company

One short form: your address and how to reach you. A person at HyreYard reads it and replies.

Your details

We reply to every inquiry. Nothing is passed on to anyone you have not asked us to contact.

Questions

Do I need a French drain?
Only if water has to be caught below the surface and there is somewhere lower to send it. It is the wrong fix when a downspout empties at the wall, when the ground slopes toward the house, or when the soil sheds water and there is no outlet. Diagnose first, then choose the simplest fix that answers it.
Why does my yard flood when it never used to?
Something upslope changed. Look for new paving, an addition, a neighbor’s regrade, a removed tree, or old drainage that silted up. Construction traffic compacts soil too. EPA notes that pavement and compacted landscapes “do not allow rain and snow melt to soak into the ground.”
How do I find out what my soil is?
Look up your address on the USDA Web Soil Survey. It is free and shows the mapped soil, its drainage class, its hydrologic soil group and its shrink-swell potential. For drainage, read the soil group: A drains readily, D has the highest runoff. It is a survey map, not a test of your lot.
Is grading or drainage more important?
Grading comes first. Water led away by shaping the ground never enters a pipe, so it cannot block or silt one. A graded swale looks like lawn and needs little upkeep. Subsurface drainage is for water grading cannot reach, such as water already in the ground or a site with no room for a swale.
How much should the ground slope away from a house?
Enough that water leaves rather than sits, over a measured distance out from the wall. Your building department sets the figure through the code it adopted, so ask there. Have the fall measured with levels, and build it up without covering the siding or weep holes.
Can I fill the wet spot with topsoil?
It can move the low point without changing where the water comes from. If the spot is a settled utility trench, refilling it in compacted layers is reasonable as part of a fix. If water naturally collects there with no outlet, a rain garden in suitable soil is another option.
Will drainage work damage my lawn and planting?
A subsurface run is dug through whatever sits on top, so yes. Restoration belongs in the quote. It is one reason to fix drainage before the rest of the landscape: a trench on bare ground is cheaper than a trench through a mature garden or a patio.
Is drainage work regulated?
It can be. Some places permit large grading jobs, regulate discharge to the street or storm system, or add rules near streams and wetlands. The model code says an exemption does not authorize work that breaks “any other laws or ordinances of this jurisdiction.” Ask your local authority.

Written and audited by

HyreYard Research Desk

Primary-source research, data analysis and fact checking

We are a research desk, not a landscaping company. We read the statute, the municipal code, the water-district rule or the federal soil file ourselves, and we publish the figure with the document it came from and the date we retrieved it.

Where a number cannot be traced to a primary source, we publish the shorter page and say what we could not verify. This desk is new.

The counts below are what we can already stand behind, and every one of them is counted from the studies on this site.

255
source documents cited, each linked
112
government (.gov) domains among them
258
citations carrying a retrieval date
10
research studies published

How this desk works

  • Primary sources only. A rule comes from the statute, ordinance, board or agency that issued it, cited by section, with the URL and the retrieval date. We do not cite a blog that cites a code.
  • Coverage is a number. A table titled to fifty states has fifty sourced rows. A table of cities is titled to the cities we actually read. Gaps are published as gaps.
  • Company counts stay inside seven states. Texas, Arizona, Washington, California, Oregon, Florida and North Carolina. Texas is the largest roster on the weakest evidence, a self-reported NAICS sales-tax permit, because Texas licenses no landscaper. National claims rest on federal or state agency data, never on our counts.
  • Fact, calculation, analysis and recommendation stay labeled. "According to…" is a source. "HyreYard analyzed… and calculated…" is ours. "This suggests…" is interpretation. We do not present our reading as something the source stated.
  • We do not landscape, irrigate, plant, cut trees or pull permits, and we take no payment for placement, ranking or a favorable mention. Nobody buys a position on this site.

Authorship on this site is organizational: the analysis belongs to the desk rather than to a named individual, and we do not publish credentials we do not hold. Our editorial policy sets out how we source, date and correct what we publish.

Sources & retrieval dates

Web Soil Survey, USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service. Retrieved September 5, 2026.
National Engineering Handbook Part 630, Chapter 7: Hydrologic Soil Groups (January 2009), USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service. Retrieved September 5, 2026.
Nonpoint Source: Urban Areas, US Environmental Protection Agency. The EPA page states the mechanism and does not publish a runoff percentage. We do not publish one either. Retrieved September 5, 2026.
Work exempt from permit, section 105.2, read as Texas Windstorm Insurance Association Building Code, 2024, section 105.2, Model administrative provisions as reproduced in a state-adopted building code. Retrieved September 5, 2026.
ICPI Tech Spec 2, Construction of Interlocking Concrete Pavements, Interlocking Concrete Pavement Institute. Read as the PDF republished by an ICPI member distributor. ICPI has since merged into the Concrete Masonry & Hardscapes Association and icpi.org redirects to masonryandhardscapes.org, so the member mirror is the copy we were able to retrieve on 5 September 2026. Retrieved September 5, 2026.
What is 811?, Common Ground Alliance, 811 Before You Dig. Retrieved September 29, 2026.

Information on this page is general and may vary by location, local code, soil, climate and your own circumstances. It is not legal or engineering advice.

HyreYard is not a landscaping company: we plant nothing, grade nothing, build no wall, cut no tree and pull no permit, and we do not supervise or warrant landscaping work.

This page explains the work so you can read a proposal and judge the company that wrote it.