Quick answer
Transplanting landscape plants means digging up an established plant with as many of its roots as you can keep, then replanting it in a new spot, so a shrub, perennial or small tree can be moved instead of replaced.
Digging cuts roots, so every move sets a plant back. Extension sources focus on timing, root-ball size and aftercare to limit the damage.
Quick facts
The key facts about Transplanting Landscape Plants, with sources:
- Best seasons
- Early spring or fall for most; fall and early winter in Georgia; fall or spring in South Carolina 124
- Root pruning ahead
- Several months to a year before a move; a year or more for large plants (Penn State) 3
- Small shrub ball (Clemson)
- A 3-foot shrub: 14 inches across and 11 inches deep, minimum 1
- Perennial divisions
- Pieces of three to five shoots each (Maryland) 6
- Recovery
- A moved shrub may sulk for two or even three growing seasons (Penn State) 3
Key takeaways
- A move cuts roots. Illinois Extension says feeder roots absorb most of a plant’s water and nutrients, and that the process causes extensive damage to the plant 2.
- Timing is the first lever. Sources point to dormant seasons: early spring or fall for most plants, and fall and early winter in Georgia 624.
- Prepare first. Penn State says to root-prune months ahead, dig the new hole before the old one, and not to dig the shrub until the new site is ready 3.
- Keep the root ball whole and replant at the same depth. UGA calls planting too deep one of the top causes of plant death 4.
- Expect a slow recovery. A moved shrub may sulk for two or three growing seasons 3. For very heavy balls, Clemson suggests hiring a professional 1.
Moving a plant that is already growing
Transplanting is different from planting nursery stock. A nursery plant was grown for sale and comes with a root system prepared for moving. A plant in your yard grew where it stands, and its roots reach well beyond what you can lift.
Gardeners transplant for several reasons: a shrub outgrew its spot, a bed is being redesigned, a plant is in the wrong light, or a perennial clump has grown too crowded. Penn State’s Master Gardener article is written for the shrub you cannot bear to lose 3.
Dividing a perennial is a form of transplanting. Maryland Extension says to divide clumps into pieces of three to five shoots each and keep the vigorous outer growth 6. Other pieces can go elsewhere.
This page covers established shrubs, small trees and perennials. For a newly planted tree that looks stressed, read tree transplant shock. For a planting job, read our planting and garden beds guide.
Why moving hurts, and how sources limit the damage
Roots are lost. A plant’s fine feeder roots spread far from the stem.
Illinois Extension explains that digging and root pruning cut those roots, which absorb most of the water and nutrients, and that shaking soil off the roots causes further loss 2.
UGA adds that severing too many roots means the plant will not survive transplant shock 4.
Root pruning ahead of time. Penn State recommends root-pruning several months to a year before digging, and a year or more for large plants 3.
Illinois describes cutting through the roots with a sharp shovel just inside the edge of the future root ball, forming a ring and leaving the center intact 2.
Clemson ties the timing to the move: root prune in March for a fall move, and in October for a spring move 1.
The idea is that the plant grows new roots inside the ball before you lift it.
A ready home. Illinois says to dig the new hole before digging up the shrub 2. Penn State uses a wide, shallow hole two to three times the width of the root ball and warns not to dig until the new site is prepared 3.
Care after. Water, mulch and patience. The sections below set out what each source prints.
- Root-pruneMonths to a year ahead, outside the future ball
- Ready the new holeDug and amended before the shrub is lifted
- Water a day or two beforeMoist, not soaked
- Dig the ball and move it wholeTarp or burlap, no shaking off soil
- Replant, water, mulchSame depth; keep it moist for the first year or more
Perennials, shrubs and trees move differently
| Plant | How it is moved | When, per the source | Watch for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Perennials and divisions | Dig the new hole first, save as large a root ball as possible, water and mulch after 6 | Early spring or fall, when dormant or just starting growth; a cloudy day helps 6 | Spring bloomers in fall and fall bloomers in spring, per UGA and Colorado State 57 |
| Small shrubs (under about 3 feet) | Can be moved bare root, per Clemson 1 | Fall or spring 1; late winter while fully dormant for bare-root, per UGA 4 | Bare-root plants need more fill in the new hole 4 |
| Medium and large shrubs | Balled and wrapped; root ball sized to the plant; a tarp for moving | Deciduous: early spring or fall after leaves drop; evergreens: often early spring, per Illinois 2 | Heavy balls; Illinois recommends a professional for large, established shrubs 2 |
| Hard-to-move trees | Need larger root balls than easy species, per Clemson 1 | Fall or spring 1 | Clemson lists beech, hickory, sweet gum, hornbeam, sassafras, tupelo, walnut and white oak 1 |
Moving is not the same as dividing
Dividing splits one perennial clump into several plants and is done every few years to renew it. Moving relocates one plant, usually a shrub, with its roots intact. UGA recommends renovating perennial beds every 3 years in Georgia, while Colorado State says some perennials need division after three to five seasons 57.
Example: how big a root ball a shrub needs
Sizing tables come from the nursery trade. Clemson prints minimum ball sizes that follow American Association of Nurserymen recommendations 1.
Illinois cites a Penn State table for a deciduous shrub: a minimum diameter of 14 inches at 3 feet tall, rising 4 to 6 inches for each added foot, and a minimum depth of 9 inches 2.
The 4- to 6-foot rows are our arithmetic from that rule, and the shrubs are invented.
| Deciduous shrub (example) | Minimum ball diameter | Source or arithmetic |
|---|---|---|
| 3 feet tall | 14 inches | Printed by Clemson and, via Illinois, Penn State 12 |
| 4 feet tall | 18 to 20 inches | Arithmetic: 14 plus 4 to 6 2 |
| 5 feet tall | 22 to 26 inches | Arithmetic: 14 plus 8 to 12 2 |
| 6 feet tall | 26 to 32 inches | Arithmetic: 14 plus 12 to 18 2 |
Ball diameter grows quickly with plant height, and so does weight. Illinois, quoting the Penn State table, gives about 91 pounds for the 14-inch ball 2.
Clemson says a 15-inch ball may weigh over 200 pounds, so consider hiring a professional for heavy balls 1. The two figures differ and neither source says why. Treat both as a warning, not a measurement.
Where the term shows up: renovations, bids and warranties
Renovation plans. A designer may keep existing shrubs by relocating them. See landscape bed preparation for the soil work that comes first.
Bids. Look for a line that says relocate, with plant size, ball size and the new spot. Our landscaping estimates guide shows how to compare lines.
Warranties. A plant that a company moves from your own yard is not a nursery plant. Ask in writing whether the move carries any guarantee. See plant warranties.
Perennial clumps. A neighbor’s division is a transplant too. Maryland says not to put all the divisions back in the old spot 6.
What moving does well, and where it falls short
What it can do
- Saves a plant you value and keeps its size, which a nursery plant would take years to reach.
- Fixes a wrong-light or wrong-spacing mistake. See sun exposure and plant spacing.
- Renews perennials. Maryland says plants left in place for more than three years often become overcrowded and develop a doughnut shape 6.
- Costs less than a new large plant when it works.
What it cannot do
- Cannot avoid root loss. Illinois says the process causes extensive damage 2.
- Cannot guarantee survival. UGA says a plant with too many severed roots will not survive 4.
- Cannot be done quickly for a large plant. Penn State says to root-prune a year or more before moving 3.
- Is hard on the person lifting. Clemson says a 15-inch ball may weigh over 200 pounds 1.
Limits and open points
Sources differ. Clemson says to move plants in fall or spring 1. UGA says fall and early winter are best and warns against extreme cold or frost 4.
Illinois discourages summer moves because they come right before the most stressful time of year 2. These are three regions, not three rules for everyone.
Failure rates are not published. None of the pages we read gives a survival percentage. Penn State says only that a moved shrub may sulk for two or three growing seasons and that aftercare is essential 3.
Ball weights differ. The Penn State figure quoted by Illinois and the Clemson figure disagree, as noted in the example.
Species matter. Clemson names species that need larger balls, but no source we read gives a full list by plant. Ask your Cooperative Extension office about your plant.
Fertilizer advice conflicts. UGA advises against fertilizer in the planting hole because it can burn roots 4, while Clemson’s page covers watering and mulch only 1. A soil test is the way to settle it. See soil testing.
What drives the cost of moving a plant
We do not print prices on a glossary page. These factors change a bid.
Size. Ball diameter and weight rise fast with plant height, as the example shows. Large balls need equipment and extra labor.
Prep work. Root pruning means a first visit months before the move, and it may mean two visits.
Distance and access. A move across a lawn differs from one through a gate or up a slope.
Aftercare. Watering for a year or more, mulch and a check-in all add up. See the cost hub.
Risk. Ask in writing what happens if the plant fails.
We found no source for how long a transplanted plant lives, so we give no lifespan. For trees, hire tree service help.
How a move is done, step by step
The is below the order the sources describe. It is not a project plan for a large plant.
- Choose the new spot and check its light, soil and room for mature size. Call 811 before you dig either hole.
- Root-prune ahead. Illinois cuts a ring just inside the future ball and repeats once or twice over a summer; Clemson uses March for a fall move and October for a spring move 21.
- Dig the new hole first. Penn State says wide and shallow, two to three times the ball width 3. UGA says not to add fertilizer to the hole 4.
- Water the plant a day or two before moving, and avoid soaking the soil on moving day, which adds weight 23.
- Mark the plant. Clemson marks a north-facing branch and the trunk’s soil line so the plant can be turned the same way 1.
- Dig the ball. Clemson makes a circle about 12 inches beyond the planned ball and undercuts it at about 45 degrees 1.
- Move the ball whole on a tarp or in burlap. Penn State says to tie up the sides to prevent soil loss and drying 3.
- Replant at the same depth, or a little higher if it was too deep 24. Water well and mulch. Illinois uses about four inches of wood chips kept off the stems, while Clemson uses 2 to 3 inches pulled away from the trunk 21.
Aftercare: what each source prints
Water is the main job. UGA says to water thoroughly after planting and then once a week if it does not rain 4.
Penn State suggests at least 5 gallons a week during the first growing season for the medium shrub it describes 3. Clemson says to maintain constant moisture, not saturation, in the root ball 1.
Illinois says to keep watering through the next year, and longer for larger plants 2.
Those numbers come from different plants and states, so we do not set a schedule. Use the sprinkler runtime calculator only for an irrigated bed, and ask your Extension office about your soil and weather.
Mulch holds moisture. See mulch types. UGA says to spread it over an area at least twice the size of the planting hole 4.
Support a tall plant if needed. UGA describes stakes for large transplants 4. See tree staking.
Hold off on heavy pruning. Penn State warns the shrub may sulk, so give it time 3. For later shaping, see shrub pruning.
Warning signs, and when to bring in a pro
Signs. Wilting that does not respond to water, leaves that scorch or drop out of season, and a plant that does not leaf out in spring all point to root loss. Sunburn can follow a sudden change from shade to sun 8.
Overwatering. Constant saturation can be as bad as drought. Clemson’s aim is constant moisture, not saturation 1.
When to call someone. For a large, established shrub, Illinois recommends a professional landscaping service 2. For a tree with a large ball, Clemson suggests hiring a professional 1. Use our guide to choosing a landscaping company.
For tree root space, see critical root zone.
Call 811, lift with help, and keep clear of power lines
Call 811 before digging either hole. A root ball can weigh 200 pounds or more 1, so use a tarp, a cart and a helper, and do not lift alone. Large trees and branches near power lines are work for a qualified arborist, not a homeowner.
What is advice, and what is a rule
| Topic | What is stated | Type | Source |
|---|---|---|---|
| Timing, ball size and aftercare | Extension and nursery-trade guidance | Guidance | Clemson, Illinois, Penn State 123 |
| Root ball size tables | Follow American Association of Nurserymen recommendations (Clemson); ANSI Z60.1-2004 in the Penn State table cited by Illinois | Trade standard, voluntary | 12 |
| Protected or heritage trees | Many cities require a permit to remove or relocate them | Local rule | See tree removal permit rules |
| Moving a plant on a state invasive list | New Hampshire’s rule bars collecting, transporting, moving or transplanting any plant on its prohibited list, including cultivars. This is one state’s example | State rule | N.H. Admin. Code Agr 3802.01 9 |
Transplanting compared with related terms
| Term | The difference | Where to read more |
|---|---|---|
| Transplanting (this page) | Moving an established shrub, small tree or perennial | You are here |
| Tree transplant shock | The stress a newly planted tree shows while roots recover | Newly planted tree stress |
| Dividing perennials | Splitting one clump into several plants | Covered in the first table |
| Planting a nursery plant | Setting out a plant grown for sale | Planting and garden beds |
| Invasive plants | Plants that some states ban from being moved | Invasive plants in landscaping |
Myths about moving plants
- Myth You can move a shrub any time you like.
- Reality Sources point to dormant seasons. Illinois discourages summer moves, and UGA warns against extreme cold or frost 24.
- Myth Dig first, decide where it goes later.
- Reality Illinois and Penn State both say to prepare the new site before digging the plant 23.
- Myth Shake the soil off to make it lighter.
- Reality Illinois says shaking soil off the roots causes further root loss. UGA offers bare-root only for plants moved when fully dormant 24.
- Myth Plant it a little deeper for stability.
- Reality UGA calls planting too deep one of the top causes of plant death 4.
- Myth If it wilts, it is dying.
- Reality Penn State says a moved shrub may sulk for two or even three growing seasons 3.
What changes by region: climate and season
Timing is the regional variable. Clemson (South Carolina) says fall or spring 1. UGA (Georgia) prefers fall and early winter 4.
Colorado State says container-grown perennials can go in at any point in the growing season, but need time to establish before winter, and bare-root perennials are best planted in spring in Colorado 7.
Hardiness zone and local frost dates shift the calendar, so ask your Cooperative Extension office for your area’s window. The zone page explains what the map covers.
When to move a plant, and your next step
Move a plant when it is small, healthy and in the wrong spot, and when you can wait for the right season. Replace it when it is large, old or hard to move, or when the move cannot be prepared months ahead.
Your next step is to pick the new spot, check light and room, and plan the root prune. For a large shrub, ask a company what ball size it would use and what aftercare it expects. Find a landscaping company when you are ready. HyreYard does not move or sell plants.
- If A perennial clump that is crowded or flowering poorly
- Then Divide into pieces of three to five shoots, per Maryland 6
- If A small shrub in the wrong spot
- Then Move it in a dormant season, bare root if it is under about 3 feet 1
- If A medium or large shrub you value
- Then Root-prune first, then move with a whole ball; consider a professional 32
- If A large mature tree
- Then Ask a qualified arborist; the ball is far larger than a homeowner can dig 4
- If A plant already stressed or drought-dried
- Then Wait. Illinois does not recommend moving a drought-stressed shrub 2
Questions about Transplanting Landscape Plants
When is the best time to transplant shrubs?
Sources favor dormant seasons. Illinois Extension says early spring or fall after leaves drop for deciduous shrubs, and often early spring for evergreens. UGA prefers fall and early winter. Clemson says fall or spring. Summer moves are discouraged. Ask your local Extension office for your window.
What is root pruning?
Root pruning means cutting through a plant’s roots in a ring before you move it, so it grows new roots inside the future root ball. Illinois uses a sharp shovel just inside the ball’s edge. Penn State says to do it several months to a year ahead, and a year or more for large plants.
How big should the root ball be?
It depends on the plant’s size. Clemson prints minimums: 14 inches across and 11 inches deep for a 3-foot shrub, and 18 by 14 inches for a shade tree with a 1-inch trunk. Illinois quotes a Penn State table with a 14-inch minimum for a 3-foot deciduous shrub that grows with height.
How deep should I replant a transplanted shrub?
At the same depth it grew before. UGA calls planting too deep one of the top causes of plant death. Illinois says to replant at the same depth or higher if it was too deep. Clemson sets the old soil line about an inch above the hole’s soil line so the plant can settle.
How often should I water a transplanted shrub?
Sources vary. UGA says to water thoroughly after planting and then weekly if there is no rain. Penn State suggests at least 5 gallons a week in the first growing season for a medium shrub. Clemson aims for constant moisture, not saturation. Keep watering for a year or more.
Why is my transplanted shrub wilting?
Moving cuts feeder roots, so the plant cannot take up enough water at first. Penn State says a moved shrub may sulk for two or even three growing seasons. Check soil moisture, avoid overwatering and give it time. If it keeps declining, ask your Cooperative Extension office.
Can I move a large established shrub myself?
It is risky. Illinois Extension recommends a professional landscaping service for larger, established shrubs, and Clemson notes that a 15-inch ball may weigh over 200 pounds and suggests hiring a professional for heavy balls. UGA says mature plants have root balls far larger than a homeowner can dig.
How do I divide and move perennials?
Maryland Extension says to dig the new hole first, save as large a root ball as possible and divide clumps into pieces of three to five shoots. Keep the vigorous outer growth, water and mulch. Colorado State says to divide when plants are not blooming, often in fall or spring.
Should I fertilize a transplanted plant?
Sources are cautious. UGA does not recommend adding fertilizer directly to the planting hole because it can burn roots, and suggests a small amount in spring when leaves begin to open. Do a soil test first. Fertilizer rules vary by state, so check local rules and the product label.
How is transplanting different from tree transplant shock?
Transplanting is the act of moving an established plant. Tree transplant shock is the stress a newly planted tree shows while its roots recover. The causes overlap, because both involve lost roots. This page covers moving shrubs and perennials, and the shock page covers symptoms and recovery in trees.
Sources
- Clemson Cooperative Extension HGIC, Transplanting Established Trees and Shrubs (HGIC 1055, published May 22, 1999), retrieved .
- Illinois Extension, Good Growing blog, Need to move a shrub? Prepare them now for moving in the fall or spring (Christopher Enroth, May 24, 2024), retrieved .
- Penn State Extension, Saving Sentimental Shrubs (Mary Jo R. Gibson, updated March 24, 2026), retrieved .
- University of Georgia Extension, Lincoln County, Transplanting Landscape Plants (October 6, 2022), retrieved .
- University of Georgia Extension, Landscape Basics: Success with Herbaceous Perennials (Bulletin 1424, reviewed May 19, 2022), retrieved .
- University of Maryland Extension, Perennials: Selection, Planting, and Care (updated July 17, 2026), retrieved .
- Colorado State University Extension, Perennial Gardening (reviewed August 2025), retrieved .
- University of Maryland Extension, Sunburn Damage on Flowers (updated March 7, 2023), retrieved .
- N.H. Admin. Code Agr 3802.01, NH Prohibited Invasive Species, as published by Cornell Legal Information Institute (rule effective 1/9/2017), retrieved .
Expert review
Written by the HyreYard Research Desk. Not yet reviewed by an outside expert. We say so rather than imply a review that has not happened; see our editorial policy.
How the numbers were checked: Timing, root pruning, ball sizes and aftercare come from five extension pages that are from different states and disagree in places, so the page shows who said what.
The 4-, 5- and 6-foot ball sizes are our arithmetic from the Penn State table as quoted by Illinois, and the Illinois and Clemson ball weights differ without explanation. The Clemson page is dated 1999.
No survival rate is published in any source read. The New Hampshire invasive rule is a single-state example, read through a Cornell LII copy of the rule.
Suggest a correction. We fix errors and say what changed.