Quick answer
Native landscaping is the practice of building a yard mainly from plants that have lived in your area for thousands of years, generally before European settlement, so they are adapted to the local climate, soil and insects.
It is a plant-choice approach, not a style. A native yard can be tidy or wild. The key idea is local origin, matched to the light, moisture and soil of each spot.
Quick facts
The key facts about Native Landscaping, with sources:
- Definition used by extension
- Plants that have inhabited an area for thousands of years, generally before European settlement 1
- Wildlife value
- Natives support native insects such as butterflies, moths and bees in ways non-natives cannot 1
- If natives are unavailable
- A native cultivar is still a better choice than a non-native exotic 1
- Cultivar caution
- In one Oregon State study, nine of 11 cultivars supported different bee communities than their native source plants 2
- Federal policy language
- Environmentally beneficial landscaping uses regionally native plants and conserves water and prevents pollution 3
- Plant for
- Mature size, not the size in the pot 1
- Establishment
- Expect a longer establishment period, then little ongoing care 1
Key takeaways
- Native means native to your area. A plant native to one region is not automatically native to another.
- Natives feed local insects and, through them, birds and other wildlife, in ways non-natives cannot.
- Straight native species usually serve pollinators better than bred cultivars, though cultivars can bring benefits such as disease resistance.
- Match each plant to its spot by light, moisture, soil and mature size.
- Natives take time to settle in. Expect a longer start and light care afterward.
What “native” means, and what native landscaping adds
A plant is native to a place when it grew there before people moved other plants around.
The University of Georgia Cooperative Extension defines native plants as those that have inhabited an area for thousands of years, generally prior to European settlement 1. The key word is “area.” Native status is local.
A plant that is at home in a Georgia woodland may not belong in a Texas prairie.
Native landscaping is the act of designing a yard around those plants. It does not require giving up all other plants. Many yards mix natives with well-adapted non-natives. Texas A&M extension says combining Texas natives with well-adapted exotic plants is one key to a beautiful, interesting landscape that conserves water 4.
The practice also has a federal pedigree. In a 1994 memo to federal agencies, the federal government defined environmentally beneficial landscaping as techniques that complement and enhance the local environment, using regionally native plants and landscaping practices that conserve water and prevent pollution 3.
That memo is policy for federal land, not a rule for homeowners, but it shows how long the idea has been in use.
This page covers plants and their fit. For the water side, see xeriscaping. For the wider approach to chemicals, runoff and habitat, see sustainable landscaping.
Why natives behave differently in a yard
The benefits come from a few linked facts about local plants and local life.
- They are adapted to local conditions. Over thousands of years natives adjusted to the local climate, soils and pests, which makes them more resilient to local stressors 1.
- They feed local insects. UGA Extension says natives support butterflies, moths and bees in ways that non-natives cannot 1.
- Insects feed other animals. Those insects draw in birds, bats, lizards, toads and turtles, which is why natives matter to the broader ecosystem 1.
- They can lower inputs. Texas A&M says most native plants need less water and fertilizer and have fewer pest problems than non-adapted exotic plants 4. EPA’s federal memo lists native plants as a way to cut fertilizer, pesticide and irrigation demand 3.
- Site match still rules. A native in the wrong spot still struggles. Light, moisture, spacing, heat and salt tolerance all count 1.
- Local insectsButterflies, moths and bees feed on them
- Birds and other wildlifeFed by those insects
- Water and inputsOften less water, fertilizer and pesticide
- Soil and siteMust match light, moisture and soil
- Care and timeLonger start, light upkeep
Benefits depend on matching the plant to the spot. Source: [1] [4]
Native species, native cultivars and non-natives: the plant ladder
| Choice | What it is | What extension says | Source |
|---|---|---|---|
| True native species | A plant grown from the wild type of your area | Best for pollinator support; usually the best choice for gardeners whose main goal is pollinators | 2 |
| Native cultivar | A selected variety of a native, bred for color, size or another trait | May change how the plant works in the environment; still better than a non-native exotic when true natives are unavailable | 1 |
| Cultivar close to wild type | A cultivar that looks and functions like the wild plant | Cultivars closer to wild traits tended to support richer bee communities | 2 |
| Well-adapted non-native | A plant from elsewhere that suits your site | Can be mixed with natives in a water-conserving yard | 4 |
| Non-adapted exotic | A plant from elsewhere with needs your site cannot meet | Needs more water, fertilizer and pest control | 4 |
- 5Pacific Northwest native species testedOregon State University study 2
- 11Cultivars of those species comparedSame study 2
- 9 of 11Cultivars with bee communities that differed from their native source plantSame study 2
- 4 yearsLength of the study at one siteSingle site, so results may not apply everywhere 2
Source: [2]
Cultivar is not a bad word
A cultivar is a variety named and sold in the trade, often bred for a trait. Oregon State notes that breeding can bring benefits such as disease resistance. The point is to know what you gave up when you chose it 2.
Example: matching four spots in one yard to plants
The is below a labelled example, not a planting plan. The plant types are placeholders to show the method. Use your state extension’s native plant list for real names. The matching factors come from UGA Extension 1.
| Spot (example) | Light | Moisture | Question to ask your extension list |
|---|---|---|---|
| North side of the house | Mostly shade | Dry under the eaves | Which natives tolerate dry shade here? |
| Low corner by the fence | Part sun | Wet after rain | Which natives tolerate wet soil that drains slowly? |
| Open front bed | Full sun | Average | Which natives bloom across several seasons? |
| Hot strip by the drive | Full sun, reflected heat | Dry | Which natives tolerate heat and, where road salt is used, salt? |
- Read the spotLight, moisture, soil, room
- Find your region’s listState extension or native plant society
- Match the traitsHeat, salt, spacing, mature size
- Check the sourceNursery-grown, not dug from the wild
- Plant and mulchWater until rooted
The same steps work for any plant. Natives add the second step. Source: [1]
UGA lists light, moisture, spacing, and heat and salt tolerance as the traits to match, and advises planting for the size a plant will be when mature, not the size it is when you buy it 1. Our plant spacing page covers the spacing part.
Where the word shows up: nurseries, tags, bids and local rules
At the nursery. A tag that says “native” may not say which region the plant is native to, so ask.
A cultivar is a named variety, so check whether the tag shows a variety name as well as the species.
UGA also says many big-nursery plants are treated with broad-spectrum insecticides that can harm pollinators 1. Ask how plants were grown.
On a bid. “Native garden” can mean a full plan or a few native shrubs. Ask for plant names, sizes and counts. See our landscaping estimates guide and plant warranties page.
In a city or HOA rule. Some towns have weed or height rules that clash with a naturalistic yard. State law may limit what an HOA can require. Read your city code and your HOA covenants before you plant.
In a rebate or program. Some water or stormwater programs favor natives. See turf rebate programs.
Use your state extension list, not a national one
Native status is set by region. Look for a native plant list from your state’s extension service or native plant society, and match plants to your site.
What native landscaping gives you
What it can do
- Habitat for butterflies, moths and bees, and through them birds and other animals 1.
- Plants that are more resilient to local stressors once established 1.
- Often lower water, fertilizer and pest-control needs than non-adapted exotics 4.
- A yard that looks like where it is, supporting the wider ecosystem 1.
Limits and unsettled points
Native does not mean no-care. UGA says to expect a longer establishment period with little ongoing care afterward 1. New plants still need water until their roots spread.
The cultivar question is not settled. Oregon State’s researcher notes that past studies gave mixed results, partly because many counted visits rather than measuring the traits behind them 2. The same study covered one site, five species and 11 cultivars. That is a useful warning, not a ruling for every plant in every region.
A plant list also cannot fix a site problem. If water pools, if soil is compacted, or if a tree shades the bed, the right native will still struggle. Fix drainage and soil first; see drainage and grading.
Finally, “native” and “invasive” are separate questions. Invasive status is set by state authorities and can change. See invasive plants in landscaping and check your state’s list.
What drives the price and how long a native planting takes to mature
We do not publish prices. A bid moves with bed size, soil work, plant size and count, mulch and any irrigation needed to establish plants. Natives are sold in many sizes, and larger plants cost more. Plant supply also changes by region.
Maturity takes time. UGA says to expect a longer establishment period 1, and Texas A&M says newly planted trees and shrubs should be watered frequently until well rooted, which may take two growing seasons 4. We do not give a lifespan; it depends on the plant, the site and the care.
To plan a budget, use the landscaping cost estimator, the mulch calculator and the cost hub. Ask about replacement terms in writing; see our guide to plant warranties.
How to start a native planting
A homeowner can plan and plant a small bed. Larger regrading, tree work and irrigation changes are jobs for qualified contractors.
- Observe the site through a season. Note sun, shade, wet spots and dry spots.
- Get a native plant list from your state extension service or native plant society.
- Match each plant to its spot by light, moisture, spacing, heat and salt tolerance 1.
- Check HOA and city rules on height, setbacks and plant types.
- Call 811 before digging so buried lines are marked 8.
- Prepare the bed. Our landscape bed preparation page covers soil and sod removal.
- Plant at the right season for your region, water until rooted, and mulch. UGA suggests natural debris such as fallen leaves for mulch 1.
Call 811 first and keep water on your lot
Anyone who plans to dig should contact 811 a few business days before starting and wait for every utility to reply 8. Shape beds so runoff stays on your property and does not flow onto a neighbor or into a sanitary sewer.
Keeping a native planting healthy
Care is lighter than for many lawns, but it is not zero. Timing depends on your region and plants.
- Water new plants until rooted. Then reduce, as plants establish 4.
- Mulch with natural debris. Leaves support soil health, moisture and wildlife habitat 1.
- Weed early. Young plantings lose to weeds easily.
- Leave some cover. Habitat needs food, water, cover and space 5.
- Use pesticides last. Pesticides are not always as necessary as people believe; try monitoring and hand removal first, and follow the label if you do use any 5.
Warning signs a native planting is struggling
- Plants failing in one spot but not another. The site match is probably wrong: light, moisture or soil.
- Thin growth after the first season. Roots may not have established, or water may have been too little.
- Nursery plants that never attract insects. They may have been treated with broad-spectrum insecticides 1.
- Standing water. No plant list fixes poor drainage.
- Plants that spread beyond the bed. Check whether the plant is invasive in your state.
If you suspect a tree problem or buried-line conflict, stop and call a certified arborist or 811. See planting and garden beds for professional help.
Rules and standards that apply
No federal rule for home yards. The 1994 memo on environmentally beneficial landscaping directed federal agencies to use regionally native plants where cost-effective and practicable 3. It does not bind homeowners.
State and local rules. States keep lists of invasive and noxious plants. Cities set weed and height rules. HOAs set covenants. These vary, and state law sometimes limits HOA control; as our state preemption research shows.
Nursery stock standard. Nebraska extension notes that plant quality is regulated by the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) through the American Standard for Nursery Stock, and that reputable suppliers back plants with a warranty, usually one year from purchase 6. That is a voluntary standard, not a law.
Pesticides. EPA says it is a violation of federal law to use a pesticide in a manner inconsistent with its labeling, and that label rules specify who may apply the product, and where, how, how much and how often 7. Follow the label and local rules. See lawn chemical safety.
Native landscaping vs. related approaches
| Approach | Main focus | Difference from native landscaping |
|---|---|---|
| Native landscaping | Plants of local origin 1 | Defined by where the plant comes from |
| Xeriscaping | Water saving through seven combined practices | Can use natives or adapted non-natives 4 |
| Sustainable landscaping | Water, chemicals, habitat and waste | Natives are one tool among several |
| Drought-tolerant plants | Plants that need little water once rooted | May or may not be native |
| Pollinator garden | Plants chosen to feed pollinators | Natives usually serve best, but the goal is different 2 |
Common myths about native landscaping
- Myth Native plants need no care.
- Reality UGA says to expect a longer establishment period but little ongoing care 1. New plants still need water until rooted.
- Myth A native cultivar is the same as the wild plant.
- Reality Cultivars are bred for a trait and may change how the plant functions in the environment 1. Oregon State found most cultivars differed in traits that matter to bees 2.
- Myth Cultivars are always bad.
- Reality Oregon State says breeding can bring benefits such as disease resistance, and UGA still ranks a native cultivar above a non-native exotic 21.
- Myth A native yard has to look wild.
- Reality It is a plant-choice approach. Texas A&M notes natives can be combined with well-adapted exotics for a beautiful, interesting landscape 4.
- Myth Native means native to the whole country.
- Reality The extension definition ties native to an area’s thousands-of-years history 1. Use a regional list.
The regional variable: your area’s native plant list
Native landscaping is local by definition, so the variable that matters is your region’s native flora and the conditions of your site.
UGA ties native status to what has inhabited an area for thousands of years 1, and hardiness zone maps describe winter cold, not rainfall, soil or summer heat. Use your state extension’s plant list.
Local rules on weeds, height and HOA covenants vary, so check them before planting.
When native landscaping fits, and your next step
Native landscaping fits when you want habitat, lower inputs and a yard that belongs to its region. It fits less well where covenants require a formal lawn, or where the site has a drainage or soil problem you have not fixed.
Start with one bed. Match plants to the spot, mulch with natural debris, and watch it for a season. Then expand. If you plan a larger design, see landscape design for what a plan should include.
Your next step: find your state extension’s native plant list and walk the yard with it. Write down which spots are sunny, shady, wet or dry.
Questions about Native Landscaping
What is native landscaping?
Native landscaping is building a yard mainly from plants that have lived in your area for thousands of years, generally before European settlement. These plants are adapted to local climate, soil and insects. It is a plant-choice approach, not a single look, and it can be combined with well-adapted non-native plants.
Why plant native plants?
Natives support native insects such as butterflies, moths and bees, which in turn feed birds and other wildlife. Texas A&M extension adds that most natives need less water and fertilizer and have fewer pest problems than non-adapted exotics. They suit sites that match their needs, so check light, moisture and soil first.
Are native plants low maintenance?
Lower, not zero. Extension advises expecting a longer establishment period and then little ongoing care. New plants still need water until their roots spread, and weeds can beat young plantings. Trees and shrubs may need frequent watering for up to two growing seasons while they root.
What is the difference between a native plant and a cultivar?
A native species is the wild type of your area. A cultivar is a variety selected and named by growers, often for color, size or another trait. Cultivars may change how a plant works for wildlife, so pollinator-focused gardens usually do best with straight species.
Are native cultivars bad for pollinators?
Not always. An Oregon State study of five native species and 11 cultivars found that nine cultivars supported different bee communities than their native source plants, and cultivars closer to the wild type did better.
The researchers say breeding can bring benefits such as disease resistance, and one site over four years cannot settle every case.
What if I cannot find true native plants?
UGA Extension says a native cultivar is still a better choice than a non-native exotic when true natives are unavailable. Ask nurseries which plants are native to your region, how they were grown and whether they were treated with broad-spectrum insecticides. Do not dig plants from the wild.
Do native plants save water?
Often, once established. Texas A&M says most native plants require less water and fertilizer than non-adapted exotics, and the federal memo on beneficial landscaping lists natives as a way to cut irrigation demand. Savings depend on the plant, the site and how long the planting has been in the ground.
How do I find plants native to my area?
Use your state extension service or native plant society, which publish regional lists. Native status is local, so a national list can mislead. Match each plant to its spot by light, moisture, spacing, heat and salt tolerance, and plant for its mature size, not the pot size.
Can native landscaping break HOA or city rules?
It can if the yard conflicts with weed, height or front-yard covenants. Some state laws limit what an HOA may require. Read your covenants and city code before you remove lawn, and ask for approval in writing if the rules call for it.
Are all native plants safe to spread?
Native plants can still spread more than you want inside a bed, so give them room and edge them. Invasive status is a separate question, set by state authorities, and a plant listed as invasive in one state may be fine in another. Check your state’s list before planting anything vigorous.
Sources
- University of Georgia Cooperative Extension (Camden County), Native plants and why they matter, retrieved .
- Oregon State University Extension, Native plants attract more pollinators than cultivars in OSU study, retrieved .
- U.S. EPA archive, 1994 memorandum on environmentally and economically beneficial practices on federal landscaped grounds, retrieved .
- Texas A&M AgriLife Extension, E-447 Xeriscape: Landscape Water Conservation (May 2001), retrieved .
- University of Florida IFAS Gardening Solutions, The Nine Principles of Florida-Friendly Landscaping, retrieved .
- University of Nebraska–Lincoln Extension, EC1264 Planting the Landscape (2014), retrieved .
- U.S. EPA, Introduction to Pesticide Labels, retrieved .
- 811, the national before-you-dig service, retrieved .
Expert review
Written by the HyreYard Research Desk. Not yet reviewed by an outside expert. We say so rather than imply a review that has not happened; see our editorial policy.
How the numbers were checked: The definition, wildlife and cultivar guidance come from University of Georgia Extension. The cultivar study figures come from Oregon State University Extension’s summary of a four-year, one-site study.
Federal policy language is from the 1994 EPA archive memo. Water and fertilizer claims are Texas A&M’s. No native plant list is given, because native status is regional and we did not verify state lists.
Suggest a correction. We fix errors and say what changed.