Cheap front yard landscaping ideas that still look good in year three

1. Re-cut every bed edge

A crisp line between lawn and bed is what makes a front yard look maintained from the street.

Build: a half-moon edger or flat spade, cut 3 to 4 inches deep at a slight angle, sod lifted out. Add landscape edging later if grass keeps creeping back.

If you hire it out: ask for edging as a listed operation with depth, not “bed cleanup.”

2. Divide perennials you already own

Clumping perennials such as daylilies and hostas can be split and replanted to fill gaps.

Build: lift the clump, split with a spade, replant at the same depth, water in.

Where cheap fails: splitting in midsummer heat without watering. Divided plants need regular water until they root.

3. Mulch rings around lawn trees

A circle of mulch around each tree trunk stops mower and trimmer damage.

Build: remove grass in a ring, spread mulch 2 to 3 inches deep, keep it off the trunk. Clemson warns against mulch touching stems (Clemson HGIC).

Where cheap fails: the mulch volcano. Mulch piled against the bark holds moisture where the tree does not want it.

4. Prune what you have

Overgrown shrubs that cover windows or crowd the walk make a house look neglected.

Build: remove dead wood, then thin rather than shear. Large trees are a job for an arborist; see tree pruning.

If you hire it out: name which plants, how much to remove and who hauls the debris.

5. Fresh mulch at the right depth

New mulch darkens beds and suppresses weeds. Clemson recommends 2 to 3 inches of shredded bark, pine needles or similar organic material (Clemson HGIC). Work out volume with our mulch calculator.

Build: weed first, edge, then spread.

Where cheap fails: adding a new layer every year on top of the old until beds sit high against the siding. Clemson says organic mulch should stay at least 12 inches from the foundation.

6. Overseed instead of re-sodding

A thin lawn can often be thickened by overseeding rather than replaced. Works where the grass is the right type for your region and the soil is not badly compacted. Our cool- versus warm-season grass page explains timing.

Build: mow short, rake or core-aerate, spread seed suited to your sun, keep moist until established.

If you hire it out: seed variety, rate, whether aeration is included and the watering responsibility. See lawn renovation.

7. Gravel path along the worn line

If people already cut across the lawn, make that line a path.

Build: excavate, landscape fabric, edging both sides, then compacted crushed stone. Our gravel calculator sizes the order; gravel versus pavers covers the trade-off.

Where cheap fails: no edging. Unedged gravel migrates into the lawn and becomes a mower hazard.

8. Groundcover on the slope you hate mowing

Clemson suggests groundcovers instead of turf on steep slopes and in shade (Clemson HGIC). See groundcover plants.

Build: kill or remove the grass, plant plugs at the spacing on the tag, mulch between until they fill.

Where cheap fails: planting too few plugs to save money. Gaps fill with weeds before the groundcover closes.

9. Container grouping at the front door

A few large pots frame an entry without digging.

Build: frost-proof pots with drainage holes, potting mix, one consistent plant palette.

Where cheap fails: small pots in hot sun dry out daily. Fewer, larger containers hold water longer.

10. Repaint the mailbox, house numbers and front door

The street view lands on the door and mailbox first, so fresh paint there changes the whole front. Works on any house. Build: exterior paint and new numbers. HOAs often regulate door and mailbox colors, so check before you buy; see HOA landscaping rules.

11. Regrade the low spot by the walk

Pooling water undoes planting. Works where you see standing water after rain; run our drainage diagnostic first.

Build: soil moved to slope away from the house, compacted, reseeded. Built by a landscaper or drainage contractor.

In the scope: direction and amount of slope, where the water ends up, and who calls 811 before digging. See calling 811.

12. Remove a dead or overgrown tree

Tree felling is not DIY work; a falling trunk does not go where you expect. Many cities require a permit; check tree removal permit rules.

Build: an insured tree service or arborist.

In the scope: stump grinding (yes or no), debris haul-off, and damage responsibility.

13. A simple foundation bed

A single curved bed along the house with three or four shrub types reads as designed.

Build: bed preparation, shrubs spaced for mature width, mulch. Built by a landscaper; design by you or a landscape designer.

In the scope: plant list by name, container size, spacing and the plant warranty.

14. Native or drought-tolerant beds

Plants suited to your rainfall need less water and replacement. See native landscaping. Some water districts pay to remove lawn; check turf rebate programs before you start, because many require approval first.

Build: lawn removal, soil prep, plants, drip line, mulch.

In the scope: species, irrigation type and whether the rebate paperwork is included.

15. Solar path lights

Plug-free stake lights mark the walk at night on fronts where running cable is not practical. Works best where the stakes get several hours of direct sun.

Build: stake in, no wiring.

Where cheap fails: lights in shade that never charge.

16. One small tree in the right place

A single ornamental tree gives the front a focal point. The U.S. Department of Energy notes that trees on the west side can block afternoon sun, and that trees should be planted far enough away that roots, leaves and branches do not damage the house (Energy Saver guide).

Build: hole as deep as the root ball and wider, root flare at grade. Call 811 first.

Where cheap fails: a fast-growing tree under the power line or against the house.

17. Raise the mowing height

Taller grass shades out weeds and looks fuller from the street. Suits any lawn that looks scalped or patchy. Build note: Clemson’s rule is to remove no more than one-third of the blade at a mowing.

18. Sharpen the mower blade

A dull blade tears grass tips instead of cutting them, and the torn ends brown and make the whole lawn look tired from the street.

Suits every mowed front yard, especially cool-season lawns in summer heat. Build note: sharpen or replace the blade at the start of each mowing season and again mid-season on large lawns.

19. Core-aerate compacted spots

Pulling small soil plugs lets air and water reach roots where foot traffic has packed the soil. Suits lawns along a walk or driveway. Build note: aerate when the grass is actively growing; rent a machine or hire a lawn care company.

20. Topdress thin areas with compost

A thin layer of screened compost raked into the lawn improves poor soil over time and fills small dips without new sod. Suits tired lawns on sandy or compacted builder soil. Build note: spread thinly enough that grass blades still show through, ideally right after core aeration.

21. Spot-seed bare patches

Reseeding only the bare spots costs far less than renovating the whole lawn. Suits lawns with a few dead patches. Build note: loosen soil, seed matched to the existing grass, keep moist until it fills in.

22. Lay a few rolls of sod where seed keeps failing

Sod gives instant cover in a high-visibility spot, such as beside the front walk or at the curb, where seed washes out or gets trampled before it roots. Build note: loosen and level the soil, butt seams tight, roll it, and water daily until the roots knit into the soil below.

23. Clover overseeded into the lawn

White clover stays green through dry spells and adds nitrogen to the soil, so the lawn needs less fertilizer. Suits homeowners who accept a mixed lawn on sunny or part-shade fronts. Build note: overseed into existing turf in spring or early fall, and check HOA rules on lawn appearance first.

24. Soil test before fertilizing

A soil test tells you what the lawn actually needs, so you stop buying products it does not. Suits any lawn that has stalled. Build note: many state extension services run low-cost tests; see our soil testing glossary entry.

25. Water deeply, less often

Fewer, longer waterings encourage roots to grow deeper than daily sprinkles, which leave roots shallow and the lawn quick to brown in heat. Suits any irrigated front lawn. Build note: Clemson gives about one inch per week on clay soils and half an inch every three days on sandy soils as a guide.

26. Fix the sprinkler heads you have

Tilted, sunken or broken heads leave dry stripes and soggy patches that read as neglect from the street, and waste water. Suits any front yard with an in-ground system. Build note: raise, straighten or replace heads and check each zone running; a quick job for an irrigation company if you would rather not dig.

27. One repeated perennial in drifts

Planting many of one tough perennial, such as daylilies or catmint, reads as designed from the street and lets you buy in bulk or divide from one clump. Suits long foundation beds and borders. Build note: space plants at their mature width and mulch between them until the drift fills in.

28. Grow perennials from seed

Black-eyed Susans, coneflowers and many other perennials grow easily from seed for a fraction of potted plants. Build note: start indoors or sow in fall where winters are cold; expect flowers in the second year for some species.

29. Bare-root shrubs and trees

Bare-root stock is sold dormant in early spring without soil or pots, and usually costs less than container plants of the same size. Suits roses, fruit trees, hedge plants and many deciduous shrubs. Build note: plant promptly while dormant, soak roots before planting, and never let them dry out.

30. Ornamental grasses from divisions

Fountain grass, switchgrass and blue fescue can be split from an existing clump to fill a sunny bed for free. Suits sunny fronts that need texture and winter interest. Build note: divide in spring as new growth starts, replant at the same depth, and water until established.

31. Self-seeding annuals

Cosmos, zinnias, cleome and other annuals that drop seed return without replanting in many climates, filling gaps between young shrubs. Suits sunny beds that are still filling in. Build note: leave some flowers to set seed in fall, then thin crowded seedlings in spring.

32. Plant swaps and seed libraries

Local plant swaps, garden clubs and library seed programs supply free plants and seeds already suited to your area. Suits anyone filling new beds on a tight budget. Build note: inspect swapped plants for weeds, pests and invasive species before planting them out front.

33. Foundation bed widened to four feet or more

Narrow strips along the house look skimpy and force shrubs against the wall. A deeper bed lets shrubs grow to their natural size and gives room for a layer of perennials in front. Build note: keep mulch at least 12 inches from the foundation, as Clemson advises, and slope soil away from the house.

34. Cardboard sheet mulching to kill lawn for a new bed

Layering plain cardboard and mulch over grass smothers it without digging or chemicals, turning lawn into a planting bed over a few months. Suits new beds where you can wait before planting. Build note: overlap cardboard edges, wet it thoroughly, cover with mulch, and plant once the grass beneath has died.

35. Compost from your own leaves

Shredded fall leaves make a free mulch or compost for front beds, saving bagging and buying. Suits yards with deciduous trees that drop heavy leaf loads. Build note: shred leaves with a mower before use so they do not mat, and compost them over winter for spring beds.

36. Herbs as edging plants

Low herbs such as thyme, chives and oregano edge a sunny bed neatly, tolerate dry soil and are useful in the kitchen. Suits sunny front walks and the front edge of foundation beds. Build note: full sun and well-drained soil; trim after flowering to keep them compact.

37. Hostas and ferns for the shady side

Shade-tolerant foliage fills the north side of a house or the area under trees where lawn always struggles. Suits fronts with less than a few hours of direct sun. Build note: moist, rich soil and mulch; divide hostas when crowded and check for slug and deer damage locally.

38. Native wildflower strip by the curb

A strip of native wildflowers replaces hard-to-mow turf by the street and supports pollinators. Suits sunny curb strips in towns that allow planting there. Build note: check municipal rules on the right-of-way strip, keep plants low near driveways for visibility, and call 811 first.

39. Brick-on-edge border

Salvaged bricks set on end in a shallow trench make a durable, traditional edge between lawn and bed. Suits older houses and cottage-style fronts. Build note: set bricks in a sand or gravel bed, keep tops level, and backfill tight so they do not lean.

40. Steel edging on the curves

Thin steel edging holds a crisp curved line between lawn and bed and nearly disappears from the street. Suits modern fronts and any bed where grass keeps creeping in. Build note: stake every few feet and keep the top just above soil level so the mower wheel rides past.

41. Stepping stones from a stone yard’s seconds

Irregular or slightly chipped stones are often sold off cheaply and look natural in a front path. Suits informal cottage or woodland fronts. Build note: set each stone flush with grade on a compacted pad so it does not rock or trip visitors.

42. Wood-chip path

Arborist wood chips make a soft, informal path through beds and are often free from tree crews working nearby. Suits side routes and paths through planting, not the main entry. Build note: edge both sides, lay chips several inches deep, and refresh yearly as they break down.

43. Decomposed granite path

Fine crushed granite compacts into a firm, natural-looking surface that suits dry climates and desert-style fronts. Suits low-slope paths with good drainage. Build note: compact in thin layers over a firm base, add edging, and use a stabilized product on slopes.

44. Widen the existing walk with a paver border

A single row of pavers along each side makes a narrow concrete walk feel generous without tearing it out. Suits older homes with skinny front walks. Build note: pavers on a compacted base, set at the same level as the walk so nothing catches a foot.

45. Driveway edge planting strip

A narrow bed along the driveway breaks up a long stretch of concrete and adds green at the street. Suits long or wide driveways with lawn alongside. Build note: choose plants that tolerate reflected heat, road salt and plowed snow piles.

46. Gravel strip along the house

A rock band under the eaves stops mud splashing onto siding and replaces dead grass where the roof drips. Suits houses without gutters or with shaded foundation edges. Build note: fabric and edging under the rock, and soil sloped away from the house.

47. Mowing strip under the fence

A paver or gravel band under a front fence lets the mower pass and ends trimming along the base. Suits picket and rail fences along the front lot line. Build note: set the strip flush with turf on a compacted base, a few inches wider than the mower wheel.

48. Repair cracked concrete steps instead of replacing them

Patching and resurfacing sound but cracked steps can refresh an entry at far less effort than tearing them out. Suits steps with surface damage but no movement. Build note: a mason should judge whether the base is sound first; moving or sinking steps need rebuilding.

49. Mailbox bed

A small planting around the mailbox post frames the street edge and hides the bare post. Suits curbside mailboxes in sunny or part-sun spots. Build note: call 811 before digging, even this close to the road, since utilities often run along the street.

50. Pair of matching planters at the door

Two identical large pots flanking the entry give symmetry and frame the door for little effort. Suits traditional houses and small fronts with no room for beds. Build note: large pots with drainage holes and plants matched to the light the entry gets.

51. Window boxes

Boxes under front windows add color at eye level and soften a plain facade. Suits houses with windows close to the ground and fronts with little bed space. Build note: mount to framing with brackets, and include drainage that directs water away from siding.

52. Porch-step pots in a stair-step arrangement

Pots placed on each step lead the eye to the door and suit houses with wide front steps. Suits sunny or part-sun porches. Build note: leave enough clear tread width that steps stay safe, and use saucers to protect the surface.

53. Clean the front walk and driveway

Washing away grime, moss and algae brightens concrete and pavers instantly from the street. Suits shady fronts where surfaces darken over time. Build note: avoid blasting joint sand out of pavers with high pressure; re-sand any joints that wash out.

54. House numbers visible from the street

Large, contrasting numbers by the door or on a post help visitors, deliveries and emergency crews find the house. Suits homes set back from the road or hidden by trees. Build note: mount where porch lights or a small fixture can light them at night.

55. Replace a dead foundation shrub with one good one

One healthy, correctly sized shrub looks better than three struggling ones crowded against the house. Suits fronts with gaps or dying plants in the foundation bed. Build note: choose for mature size so it never covers windows, and plant well out from the wall.

56. Trellis with a climbing vine by the door

A vine on a trellis softens a blank wall beside the entry and adds height without taking ground space. Suits narrow fronts and entries with bare siding. Build note: mount the trellis a few inches off the siding to allow airflow and painting behind it.

57. Downspout extension to daylight

Carrying roof water away from the front foundation stops beds washing out and protects the basement. Suits houses where downspouts empty straight into front beds. Build note: bury pipe at a slight continuous fall to an outlet that drains, away from the neighbor’s lot.

58. Rain garden in a low spot

A shallow planted basin catches roof runoff and suits fronts with a natural dip where water already gathers. It turns a soggy patch into a planted feature. Build note: site it away from the foundation and septic, size it to the roof area draining to it, and plant species that tolerate wet and dry spells.

59. Dry creek bed for a runoff path

A rock-lined channel turns an erosion gully into a deliberate feature and carries storm water across the front yard. Suits sloped fronts where water already cuts a path. Build note: fabric under the rock, a mix of stone sizes, and a stable outlet at the low end.

60. Groundcover junipers on a bank

Low spreading junipers hold soil on sunny, dry slopes that are hard and unsafe to mow. Suits steep front banks in full sun. Build note: plant through erosion-control fabric on steep banks, and mulch between plants until they spread.

61. Timber or stone steps cut into a slope

Simple steps make a steep front yard walkable and stop a muddy shortcut forming. Suits sloped fronts where visitors climb from the street. Build note: consistent riser heights, timbers anchored with rebar, and gravel or stone treads that drain.

62. Low stacked-stone border

A one- or two-course stone edge holds mulch on a gentle slope and adds a natural border. Suits sloped beds and rustic fronts. Build note: keep walls low enough to stay under permit thresholds; see our retaining wall permit research.

63. Mulch berms with shrubs

A low berm planted with shrubs adds height and interest to a flat front lot and can screen the house from the street. Suits flat, open fronts. Build note: compact the soil and shape the berm so it never directs water toward the house.

64. Moisture-loving shrubs where water sits

Planting shrubs suited to damp soil works with a wet corner instead of fighting it, and avoids losing plants every spring. Suits low spots that stay soggy after rain. Build note: ask a local nursery for species that tolerate seasonal wet and fix any water flowing at the house first.

65. Cottage garden

Dense mixed perennials, self-seeding annuals and a simple path give a full, informal front that suits older houses and small lots. Build note: start with divisions, swaps and seed; accept a looser look and edge the beds so it reads as intentional.

66. Modern minimal

One groundcover, one grass and gravel with clean edges suit contemporary houses, and fewer plant types mean less to manage. Build note: steel edging, a strict plant list, and fabric under the gravel to keep lines crisp.

67. Farmhouse

Hydrangeas, a simple fence line and a gravel or brick walk suit rural and farmhouse-style homes. Works best with part sun and steady moisture for the hydrangeas. Build note: check that each hydrangea type gets the sun or shade it needs, and mulch to keep roots cool.

68. Woodland front yard

Under existing trees, mulch, ferns and shade perennials replace thin grass and suit shaded fronts in wooded neighborhoods with acidic, leafy soil. Build note: never pile soil over tree roots; plant small plugs between roots and mulch lightly.

69. Desert or xeriscape front

Gravel, boulders and drought-tolerant plants suit arid regions and sunny, fast-draining lots, and cut watering to a minimum once established. Build note: see our xeriscaping glossary for principles, and check turf rebate programs before removing lawn.

70. Edible front yard

Raised beds of vegetables and herbs in a sunny front yard grow food where the best sun often is. Suits fronts with full sun and supportive neighbors. Build note: check HOA and city rules, and keep beds tidy, edged and harvested so it stays welcome.

71. Pollinator front yard

Native flowering plants for bees and butterflies replace part of the lawn and bring life to the front. Suits sunny fronts and towns encouraging native planting. Build note: group plants in drifts, mulch between, and leave a mown edge so it reads as cared for.

72. Formal clipped look

Low clipped hedges and symmetrical beds suit traditional and colonial houses with centered doors. Works best where you enjoy regular trimming. Build note: choose slow-growing shrubs to reduce shearing, and keep beds symmetrical on both sides of the walk.

73. Coastal front yard

Ornamental grasses, sand-tolerant plants and a shell or gravel path suit seaside homes on sandy soil exposed to wind and salt spray. Build note: choose salt-tolerant plants with a local nursery and amend sandy soil with organic matter.

74. Rock garden front

Boulders and small alpine or drought plants set in gravel suit sunny, well-drained slopes and dry climates. Build note: bury boulders a third deep so they look natural; see our rock garden ideas post for build detail.

75. Remove the lawn entirely on a tiny front yard

On a very small front, beds and a path can be easier and better looking than mowing a postage stamp of grass. Suits townhouses and small urban lots. Build note: check HOA rules and any turf rebate before removing lawn, then sheet-mulch rather than dig.

76. Low hedge to define a corner lot

A knee-high hedge along a corner lot stops corner-cutting foot traffic and frames the yard. Suits corner lots with worn grass at the intersection. Build note: keep it low near the intersection for driver visibility; many towns regulate planting height there.

77. Single small tree as a focal point

One ornamental tree such as a serviceberry or redbud anchors a small front and gives seasonal flowers and color. Suits fronts too small for a shade tree. Build note: call 811 first and plant away from overhead lines and the foundation.

78. Vertical planters on a narrow porch

Stacked or wall-mounted planters add greenery where there is no ground space at the entry. Suits apartments, rowhouses and porches with no beds. Build note: drainage trays to protect the porch surface, and watering access for each tier.

79. Gravel parking pad edged with plants

Where a car must park in front, a gravel pad edged with planting looks better than bare dirt or worn grass. Suits narrow lots without a garage. Build note: compacted base and edging; check city rules on front-yard parking surfaces first.

80. Curved bed lines to make a small yard feel larger

Sweeping curves draw the eye along the yard and soften a boxy lot. Suits small, rectangular fronts with straight walks. Build note: lay out curves with a hose before cutting, and keep curves gentle enough to mow along.

81. Repeating one color in pots and plants

Limiting a small front to one flower color across pots and beds makes it read as planned rather than random. Suits small fronts and townhouses. Build note: choose plants and pots together, and repeat the color on both sides of the door.

82. Bench under a window

A simple bench under a front window gives a small front a reason to linger and frames the facade. Suits porches and fronts with a level spot near the house. Build note: set it on pavers or gravel so the legs do not sink, and keep it clear of the walk.

83. Cold-climate evergreen structure

Evergreen shrubs keep a front yard from looking empty through long winters in cold regions, when perennials are gone. Suits northern fronts with snow cover. Build note: plant where snow sliding off the roof and piled from the driveway will not crush them.

84. Hot-dry climate gravel and succulents

Succulents set in gravel suit hot, dry front yards and need little water once established, while gravel keeps crowns dry. Suits desert and Southwest fronts. Build note: free-draining soil, fabric under the gravel, and drip irrigation during establishment.

85. Humid South shade trees and groundcovers

In humid heat, a shade tree and groundcover beneath it cool the front of the house and replace struggling lawn. Suits Southern fronts facing west or south. Build note: the DOE guide favors trees on the west for afternoon shade; plant clear of the foundation.

86. Pacific Northwest moss-tolerant shade garden

In wet, mild shade, ferns and moss-friendly plantings thrive where grass fails and moss takes over anyway. Suits shaded fronts in the Northwest. Build note: improve drainage where water stands, and let moss fill between plants instead of fighting it.

87. Snow-storage strip

Leaving a lawn or gravel strip by the driveway for plowed snow stops shrubs being buried and broken every winter. Suits snowy regions with long driveways. Build note: avoid salt-sensitive plants near the drive and mark the strip edge with stakes in fall.

88. Windbreak shrubs on the windward side

A row of dense shrubs blocks winter wind across open, exposed fronts and can make the entry more comfortable. Suits rural and Plains lots. Build note: the DOE guide places windbreaks on the north and northwest sides of a home.

89. Wildfire-aware planting near the house

In fire-prone regions, keeping the area right next to the house lean, well spaced and free of dry debris reduces risk. Suits fronts in wildland-urban areas. Build note: see our defensible space research for state rules before planting.

90. Watering-restriction-proof planting

Where watering days are limited, plants that survive on rainfall once established keep the front alive through restrictions. Suits drought-prone regions. Build note: see our watering restrictions tracker, and use drip during the establishment period.

91. Weed before you mulch, every time

Mulch spread over live weeds only delays them, and they push through within weeks. Suits every bed refresh, whatever the climate. Build note: pull or hoe weeds first, edge the bed, then spread mulch 2 to 3 inches deep as Clemson advises.

92. Pre-emergent timing for crabgrass

A pre-emergent applied before crabgrass germinates in spring prevents a summer of pulling it from the lawn edges. Suits lawns with a history of crabgrass along walks and drives. Build note: follow the label exactly, and read our lawn chemical safety page before using any product.

93. Prune lower limbs to lift a tree canopy

Raising the lowest branches of a front tree lets light reach the lawn, opens the view of the house and clears the walk. Suits fronts where a tree blocks windows or shades grass. Build note: small cuts are DIY; large limbs belong to an arborist.

94. Remove a struggling hedge instead of nursing it

A half-dead hedge drags the front down, and removal plus a simple bed can look better at less effort. Suits hedges with large dead sections. Build note: grind or dig stumps, call 811 first, and replant with shrubs suited to the light.

95. Seasonal cleanup in fall

Clearing leaves off lawn and beds in fall prevents matted, dead patches in spring and keeps the front tidy through winter. Suits yards with deciduous trees. Build note: shred leaves with the mower for mulch rather than bagging them.

96. Rake and re-edge gravel areas twice a year

Gravel looks fresh again after raking, re-edging and topping up thin spots, without replacing it. Suits gravel paths, strips and parking pads. Build note: top up with the same stone size and color, and pull weeds while small.

97. Low-voltage starter lighting kit

A plug-in low-voltage kit lights a walk more reliably than solar stakes, especially on shaded fronts. Suits homeowners comfortable with simple DIY. Build note: transformer on an outdoor GFCI outlet, cable buried shallow along beds; anything hardwired is electrician work.

98. Uplight one feature tree

A single uplight on a front tree gives night curb appeal for little effort and makes the house easier to find. Suits fronts with one standout tree. Build note: low-voltage fixture aimed away from neighbors’ windows and drivers’ eyes.

99. Paint or stain a tired front fence

Fresh stain or paint on a short front fence ties the yard together and is one of the quickest visual lifts. Suits wood picket or rail fences. Build note: check posts for rot first, clean and dry the boards, then stain; see our fence staining entry.

100. Hide the trash bins

A simple screen or hedge around bins removes the first eyesore visitors see when bins live at the front. Suits houses without garage storage. Build note: leave room to roll bins out easily, and check HOA rules for screens.